Pushing the boundaries [restaurant review]

Pier 76 Fish Grill expands on the fish house concept

Years ago I worked with someone who spent much time thinking about numbers. He was a tour organizer rather than an accountant, and he believed that combinations of digits had a psychological connection. He priced his excursions based on this theory, which drove management crazy because profits were always slightly off from their projections. The […]

The broths are what stand out [restaurant review]

Variations on traditional theme offered at RB’s Rakkan Ramen

Of all the items to enter culinary fad territory during the last few decades, ramen has been most resistant to being upscaled into silliness. Burgers are sprinkled with caviar, pizza topped with quail sausage, sushi rolls stuffed with foie gras, but somehow ramen just stays its honest self. It can’t be that nobody has considered […]

Contemporary take on tacos [restaurant review]

Tocaya Organica proves healthy Mexican food can deliver zesty flavors

Mexican food has been redefined in California at least twice in the last century. In the 1950s drive-in owner named Glenn Bell started experimenting with hard shell tacos, which were then a novelty, and stuffing them with hamburger fillings, including  lettuce and cheddar cheese along with a salsa that had barely perceptible heat. The company […]

Gem in an unlikely neighborhood [restaurant review]

Panelas Brazil Cuisine’s obscure North Redondo location hasn’t hurt it’s popularity.

Whatever you think of immigration (and in the current political climate it’s pretty certain you have some opinion), the countries that have a lot of it sure develop interesting cuisines. Fascinating hybrids develop in neighborhoods where cultures mingle, and the most appealing ones become part of the shared culinary heritage of their adopted country. This […]

Rockefeller opens in Redondo, history-themed bistro on the way, Pappy van Winkle dinner, and more South Bay restaurant news

Grand Parade Of Bivalves… I have a soft spot for oysters, so am leading off with a note about a dinner on Monday, November 12, at which they’ll be in everything except dessert. A seafood-based five course dinner is thematically perfect for Sea Change at Chez Melange, and oyster expert and author Carolyn Tillie will […]

Mama D’s MB closes, Montana-themed restaurant opens, two new Yellow Vases, Events, and more dining news

A La Carte column for 17 October 2018

Downtown Will Smell Different… After over a quarter-century in business, the original Mama D’s will soon close. Like many downtown businesses they have been facing substantial rent increases, and it’s hard to make big money selling relatively inexpensive plates of pasta. Founder Chris Davidson spends his time at the Redondo Beach location, so those of […]

When Only the Best Will Do [cooking and dining]

Looking for those hard to find ingredients for a special meal? Here's where to go for worldwide groceries.

Have you ever been in line at a supermarket check stand and suddenly realized you couldn’t remember which loyalty card to pull out because you forgot where you were? You’re not the only one. Major grocery stores all have the same architecture and the same offerings, and if you only visit those you might regard […]

Back to basics, with a few surprises [restaurant review]

Pappy’s has transformed the former Papadakis into a fish restaurant with well executed traditional and contemporary offerings.

Restaurant designers who repurpose old buildings sometimes strike a balance between old and new aesthetics. Conserve that antique bar, those mid-century banquettes, the tile floor, but in a room with open beams and airy space instead of the lower ceiling that would have been standard a century ago. It’s a way of referencing an antique […]