Ali’I Hawaiian Grill is not just for aristocrats

I fondly remember the Beach Hut in Manhattan Beach, a happy little shack that was the introduction to Hawaiian food for South Bay locals. They were noted for giant portions of cheap food that was then regarded as exotic. This is where we first experienced loco moco, spam musubi, sweet fried bread, curiously addictive macaroni…

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Aprons in Hermosa Beach is an American classic

If you ask Beach Cities residents what our area lacks when it comes to restaurants, the answer is clear: casual family restaurants. Not fast-food, counter serve, of which we have plenty, but a place where people of all ages can relax and dine on the style of American food they might find in a classic…

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Baran’s 2239, born brilliant and still evolving

The most critically acclaimed restaurant in the Beach Cities, the only one to win a coveted Bib Gourmand award from the Michelin guide, always looks closed. The windows in their small strip mall location are black, and often covered by a low awning that obscures them. The place has a sign that is difficult to…

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Dumpling Mix, a Chinese adventure on Pacific Coast Highway

Chinese dumplings aren’t a new cuisine in America. They’ve been available in California since the 1920s, when the Hang Ah Tea Room opened in San Francisco. That restaurant is still open and still good, but until a few decades ago the language spoken by diners was mainly Chinese. Few people outside that community were familiar…

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Grading on the Coffee Curve in Redondo Beach

For a major traffic artery, Aviation Boulevard has historically had remarkably few dining choices. There are bright spots at the Ocean Diner and the restaurants that share the Big Lots parking lot in Hermosa Beach, but from there north into Redondo Beach, the pickings were slim. Two bars serve a limited selection of sandwiches and…

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Saloon Osaka, eccentric, excellent, Japanese

It’s hard to imagine how anybody would find Saloon Osaka unless someone told them about it. The location takes ‘low profile’ to new levels — they’re on the edge of a parking lot in a mini-mall where El Segundo’s Main Street t-bones into Imperial Highway. The rumble of jets from the airport across the street…

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The Steak Library is a Temple of beef

People who enjoy lively, loud restaurants sometimes say quiet restaurants are like dining in a library. To some people, that would not sound like a bad thing. We’ve found books we loved, and sometimes people we loved too, amid the shelves of arcane knowledge, witty or serious stories, and the volume in the nonfiction section…

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Salt & Pearl, an unpolished pearl

While dining at the recently opened Riviera Village restaurant Salt & Pearl, I enjoyed a conversation with a longtime local, and we reminisced about neighborhood seafood restaurants long gone. We both had fond memories of The Windjammer, a cavernous relic more famous for their collection of nautical bric-a-brac than the creativity of their cuisine. They…

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Mother’s Market, not like Mom used to make

Mother’s Market on Rosecrans is not the type of place my mother would have shopped. She was a dutiful cook who never went beyond the recipes she learned in the 1930s. Any vegetable more exotic than carrots, broccoli, potatoes, cabbage, or spinach was viewed with suspicion. Healthy eating meant two of those veggies on a…

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The Craftsman Brews & Bites on display

Kids often model adult behavior, and at times the result can be hilarious. When we were dining out with one of my children who was about three years old and a restaurant server came to our table, she would look at the menu solemnly and announce, “I’ll have the shrimp.” She couldn’t read but had…

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Compagnon Bistro classic cuisine in style

When I talk with newcomers to the Peninsula about San Pedro, I find many have impressions of the city based almost exclusively on the Gaffey corridor of chain stores, fast food joints, and little of cultural interest. Most know that there’s an old downtown area but are hard-pressed to name any destination there except for…

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