No matter how much my body is dragging or how bad I know the conditions are going to be, I’m excited to surf. Whatever you want to call it – passion, obsession, or stoke, I can always rely on the drive to pop out of bed and go spend some time with the ocean.
That being said, the sheer amount of food that I ate at Thanksgiving festivities last night made this morning’s surf quest move a little slower. After waking myself up with a few volleyball games bright and early- everyone else also still being “turkeydrunk”- I was El Porto bound with my dearest friend Casey Lewis and our friend and stoked new surfer Chloe Alpert.
The small rollers at 45th St yielded us the most satisfying session I’ve had in weeks. As soon as my toes plunged themselves in the water I felt my groggy self fully present, and I was elated to feel that I did some of the best surfing I ever have, spending more time on the nose of my new longboard in an hour than I can ever remember. The more time I spend in the sea the more I improve, and every day I look forward to refining my skills and become a better all around water-woman.
