By Richard Foss
It sounds odd to say that one of the most distinctive restaurants in the South Bay has become one of the least distinctive – and it’s an improvement. The Ragin Cajun on PCH was a resurrection of a restaurant that opened in 1994 as the Cajun food fad was winding down. They tried to recreate the look of a Louisiana roadhouse, misspelled signs and fake shack frontages lining the walls. That caricature was dated in the 90’s and did not freshen with time, and as interest in Cajun food waned it was obviously time for a change.
Owners Steve and Lisa Hodges changed the name to the Redondo Beach Grill in March. The hick decor came down, the walls were painted sea-green, and local landscapes and memorabilia went up. They didn’t plaster the place with sepia pictures or try to make it look like a surf shack, and that’s probably for the best – plenty of other spots have that niche.
They carried over some of the specialties from the Ragin Cajun, so you can still get the po-boys, gumbo, jambalaya, and other Louisiana favorites. That’s sensible because they’re the only place in the Beach Cities serving those, so the old clientele will keep coming. The rest of the menu is pretty generic – steaks, burgers, sandwiches, burritos, pastas and salads. Those items are popular with all ages, but present a challenge – if you’re not serving something original, how do you make an impression in a competitive market?
The answer seems to be that when you don’t make things that are unique, you make standards very well and hope that customers will catch on. In four visits we tried items from the new menu and verified to our satisfaction that they still make the Cajun favorites just as well as ever. The Louisiana grilled oysters, for instance – purists blanch at covering up the bivalves with seasoned butter and cheese, but they weren’t at the table and I was. The oyster flavor was a layer of richness under the dairy products, and there was just a hint of herbal and peppery seasoning to balance it. There were six, they were big, and soon they were gone.
The bayou bisque has been renamed as a seafood bisque, and there was a gentle peppery undercurrent in the creamy broth. The portion of crab and shrimp was generous, and a bowl is a main course, and at 18 bucks, a modestly priced one. The fried chicken is as good as ever – there are very few places for good fried chicken in the South Bay, and this is my favorite. The generously-sized half bird has a crisp crust with mild seasoning, the way they make it in the South. I was less of a fan of the mac and cheese – it’s the very creamy style with a soupy sauce, and I prefer the baked version with a crusty top. The cornbread on the side was not overly sweet and had a little of the grit and corn flavor, as it should be.
The starters we tried from the new menu were the chili and a caesar salad, and the latter was a standard item well-executed. It was milder than dressings that amp up the garlic, pepper, and anchovy, but there was some there. The no-bean chili was less to my taste, the broth a bit thin and mild, though there was a nice flavor of cumin and onion that gave it some interest. Preferences in chili are individual, so it might be your favorite.
On another visit we tried the fettuccini with shrimp, and at a server’s recommendation, the “Chuck Norris” sandwich. The pasta was a very full bowl of shrimp and properly al dente noodles in parmesan cream sauce, with more parmesan and chopped green onions on top. It’s the Americanized dish with lots of creamy sauce rather than the subtle Italian version, but you’re not in an Italian restaurant – this is Italian-American comfort food.
As for the Chuck Norris sandwich, Mr. Norris never ate one, or even knew about this homage. Steve said that he named this riff on a Philly cheesesteak after Norris because it was unbeatable. It went on the menu only two days before Norris died, an unfortunate coincidence. As for what this is, it’s a French roll packed with chopped steak, grilled onions, pepper jack cheese, and mayo – a bit more mayo than I preferred, but that’s a minor quibble. It’s probably not part of the training diet for a martial artist, but have one anyway and work it off later. Get it with the onion rings, and regret nothing.
The burritos with homemade red or green sauce are among the most popular new items.
Another item worth trying is the burrito – I had carne asada, but which protein doesn’t matter, because the sauces are the attraction. I asked for half red sauce and half green so I could try both, and they were surprisingly zippy. The green had a tomatillo heat that was balanced with citrusy notes, the red a harmony of smoked and fresh chile flavor. It was served with a fresh guacamole, and a dollop of that helped when the heat got intense.
There are libations from the bar that will also help cool that heat, including a noteworthy mocktail called the Pacific Beach. This is passionfruit juice, prickly pear syrup, mint, and sprite, and it was an unexpected delight. I also tried both regular and Whistle Pig old fashioneds (get the Whistle Pig), and a rum punch that was a bit sweet for my taste but could be fixed with a dash of bitters.
The desserts are mostly southern classics, a butter cake and peach cobbler among them. I’d tried both and found the cobbler a bit too sweet, but will have the cake any time. Churros are also offered, but those will wait for another day.
Food and beverages at the Redondo Beach Grill are relatively modestly priced – almost everything is under twenty bucks. At that rate you can stop in to sample your way through the menu and find the items that hit the spot.
The Redondo Beach Grill is at 525 E. PCH in Redondo. Open 11 a.m daily, close 10 p.m. Mo-Sa, 9 p.m. Su., parking lot, wheelchair access good, patio dining. Full bar, kid’s menu, noise level moderate. Phone 310-540-7403, website at redondobeachgrill.com. ER
