America is the country of hyperbole in advertising – every product claims to be best, every pop singer the hottest, every idea the most brilliant. The trend extends to civic and state pride – look at the mottoes and the slogans on license plates – and it is especially prevalent in restaurant advertising. There are no half measures here; places claim to have the biggest steak, coldest beer, and largest wine list.
Which makes it odd that one of the hottest new restaurants has a name that means “about or approximately.” Circa replaced Mucho, which never found its market and was best known for a lively bar scene. There were predictions that Circa would be more a nightlife spot than a dining destination too, despite the involvement of celebrity chefs Octavio Becerra and Bryon Freeze, but at multiple visits the restaurant was nearly at capacity with people who were focused on much more than cocktails.
Which is not to say that the cocktail selection here isn’t worthy of attention, because even by the steadily rising standards of the South Bay, it’s remarkable. Bar manager Julian Cox has assembled a staff that really know historic drinks, and if you tell a server your favorite raw materials, they can come up with original or traditional variations to suit your palate. Only a few of the pre-Prohibition specialties are actually listed on the menu, which I think is a missed opportunity- if diners are given more choices and information, they might order some of the more interesting and arcane items. On one visit we tried “Penicillin,” an inspired creation from barman Sam Ross that mixes blended Scotch with lemon and sugar, then floats Islay malt whisky on top. It’s the flavor of an earlier era and quite a way to start a meal. They also make an exceptional mai tai and modern drinks, so despite the good wine menu I have yet to raise a glass of the grape there.
Though Circa has only been in business for a few months, there have already been conceptual changes in the menu. The restaurant opened with a section called “morsels,” a designation that suggested stingy portions – in fact there was a wide variation in the size of starters. That name has been scrapped and the portions regularized, so that things are now simply grouped by whether they are vegetable-based, land animal, or sea creature.
A few early hits were dropped, but may cycle back on the frequently changing menu. Among the stalwarts on the vegetable section are crispy risotto balls, roasted beet salad, and lemon gnocchi. The rice balls themselves have a mild flavor and are more about the texture of crisped Arborio with shredded Parmesan cheese on top, but they are excellent paired with the beet salad, goat cheese, and peppered onion marmalade. Beets are also roasted in a salad that includes cumin and avocado to surprising effect, and then adds pickled radish to accent the sweet and sour flavor. This item is probably going to go off the menu soon along with other winter and spring vegetables, but is well worth trying if it is still offered when you visit. Another seasonal item worth seeking out is the battered and fried stuffed squash blossom – they come three to an order, and if there are two of you at the table, there will be a fight over the third one.
Moving to seafood, a favorite item for either a starter or main course has been octopus that is slow-cooked sous vide style before being wood grilled. I took a friend who is very picky about seafood here, and she was won over immediately, calling the tender tentacles the best she has ever had. Indeed, if you like the flavor of octopus or squid but have been put off by the texture, this could be your first rewarding experience with cephalophagy – there’s a scent of woodsmoke to the meat, and the Greek-style presentation with gigande beans, chorizo, and broccolini suits it elegantly.
Tentacled creatures feature in another dish that – a pounded calamari steak that I wasn’t going to order, but the smell of one being delivered to a neighboring table was so wonderful that we had to try it. This too was meltingly tender, with a dash of garlicky vinegar that enhanced the fish very well. They used to have a dish of salmon cured with Turkish spices that was off the menu on my most recent visit but may return – if it does, that’s another keeper.
Circa has influences from the Mediterranean and Northern Asia that crop up in the steamed or fried dumplings that are always offered, with dim sum favorite that might have been invented in Provence. The Northern Chinese lamb dumplings that were on the menu when they opened had a concentrated meaty flavor that was too strong for some people, and though they had a following they have been removed. The current steamed chicken, shrimp, and mushroom dumplings have been more popular, and seem likely to stay for a while.
Among the large plates, lamb sirloin Moroccan style with mint relish and heirloom carrots has been exceptional, and the duck confit taco with salsa pipian – made from ground pumpkin seeds – is a hit. I was less enamored of the Korean short rib with spicy slaw only because it’s precisely what I’d expect from a traditional Korean restaurant. The spicy slaw was very good, the housemade kimchi authentic, but it didn’t quite have the sparkle and style of some other dishes here. I freely admit that I have very high expectations from this kitchen, and it’s not reasonable to expect brilliance every time even though I do.
The dessert list is surprisingly short, and almost everyone orders either the chocolate mousse or churros. The mousse is good, the churros excellent, served Spanish-style with bittersweet chocolate dipping sauce. There are also after-dinner drinks that can finish the meal with a bang, if you are so inclined.
The bill at Circa can vary widely – you can easily have a full meal for less than $40 per person, but if you start exploring the cocktail or wine menus it can be rather more. The ambiance can vary widely too – distinctly quieter early in the evening and midweek than on weekends, when the place starts jumping early. What is consistent is the innovation, style, and consistent good taste from a kitchen that has come up to speed remarkably quickly and promises to carry on in the same vein.
Circa is at 903 Manhattan Avenue in Manhattan Beach. Open Tuesday through Saturday, dinner only – reservations suggested. Full bar, street parking only, wheelchair access OK. Website at circamb.com, phone 310-374-4422.
