A La Carte column for 20 Feb. 2025
by Richard Foss
Pier Plaza Blues: Just a few months after the Brews Hall served its last pint, another Pier Plaza restaurant is closing. Watermans lasted 15 years, but recently sent a gracious message thanking fans for their patronage. At least one other restaurant on that block is also for sale, and I would not be surprised to see others join them. Leases here commanded a huge premium a decade ago when it was a year-round, seven-day a week nightlife destination and restaurateurs could plan on turning tables three times a night. Those leases are less viable in an era when late night dining is less popular and the area is attracting an older crowd. The lack of culinary diversity is also a factor, with increasing competition from nearby Hermosa Avenue restaurants serving more creative and interesting food. There is still life in the neighborhood, and new entrants with good ideas can bring the luster back. Time will tell…
Where The Action Is: El Segundo: An example of the type of eatery that would add color to the area is Tapizon, the modern South American restaurant that occupied a space at the edge of El Segundo’s downtown. They recently closed after announcing that they were moving to Hermosa, but didn’t say where… El Segundo has an unusual number of restaurants on low-traffic side streets, and the recently opened Five Point Five Brewing has one of the oddest. It’s on a steep one-way street between El Segundo Boulevard and Grand Avenue, in an area with limited parking. Besides the foamy stuff, they serve some intriguing pizzas like the jeepney, with smoked Filipino sausage, onions, peppers, and purple yam in banana tomato sauce. I haven’t tried that yet, but I must (137 Nevada St., ES)… Another new entrant in town is a new branch of Phanny’s, whose Redondo location is famed for breakfast burritos. They’ll open in the small mall on PCH just south of El Segundo Boulevard, perfect for commuters heading toward airport offices. No date has been mentioned, but a staff member said, “Sooner rather than later… That’s less precise than it might be… And at the very edge of town, the former ArcLight Cinema on Rosecrans will reopen as CinemaWest Beach Cities, and they’ll bring along a surprising partner – Pink’s, the hot dog stand that started serving in 1939. This Pink’s will be very different from the original barebones outdoor stand, both because it’s indoors and will serve beer and wine. They’ll also be open for those who haven’t come to see a movie, which will delight local office workers looking for a quick bite. There are two empty restaurant spaces next to the theater that are still available, but the opening of the theater should spur interest there. Champagne corks are probably popping at the adjacent Nomad Eatery, which has stayed open thanks to a loyal local following…
Life Beyond El Segundo: The only restaurant news from Hermosa is that Cake & Bake, the coffeehouse and bakery at Five Corners, is expected to open within a few weeks after a long gestation period. There is other news in the world of food, The Von’s at the top of Pier Avenue is transitioning to a Pavilions Market. The ownership is the same, but Pavilions usually features an expanded food to go section, more high-end groceries, tastings and events, and also higher prices… Redondo has had two recent openings, smashburger specialists Proudly Serving and the oddly named “Espresso, Bread &.” To say the opening of this Japanese franchise was eagerly awaited is a massive understatement, because there has been a line out the door with a wait of up to an hour every day. They frequently sell out of bread within an hour of opening. The specialty here is “mou” bread, very soft, pillowy pastries, and I would tell you what they’re like, but I was one of the people who came here and found empty shelves. They also serve breakfast, for those determined enough to show up very early while they still have something to make it with (1212 S. PCH #100, RB)…
Coming Attractions: In a previous column I mentioned a restaurant called Taormina was scheduled to open next door to Turquoise on Catalina Avenue. You may have been puzzled when a sign announcing Il Posto went up instead. The owners realized that first of all, the name Taormina (the capital of Sicily) suggests that they will specialize in Sicilian food, which they won’t. Second, the average local resident doesn’t know where Taormina is, or how to pronounce it. Il Posto is not affiliated with the similarly named restaurant in San Diego, and will serve food from various regions of Italy. They’ll have a full bar, too – watch for an opening within a few weeks…And an update on a long-awaited project – contemporary restaurant Saint & Second should open at the Manhattan Village Mall around April 15. Those with long memories may recall that this restaurant was scheduled for fall of 2022, making it one of the most delayed openings in recent history. We’ll all be interested in seeing if it’s worth the wait…
First Looks: I stopped in at Unico Tokyo Pasta in Redondo, which is under the same ownership as the nearby Japonica. The plates of pasta with Japanese-style Bolognese and seafood with sea urchin sauce were very good, and the cauliflower soup with koji – a byproduct of sake manufacture – had an interesting character. Service is attentive, but the restaurant has very poor acoustics and is on the loud side. After dinner we went next door to the Fox Den, the cocktail bar owned by Sean Weiss of Fox & Farrow. The style is mid-century hipster, the drinks are excellent, and the soundtrack is all over the place. They played everything from vintage cool jazz to abrasive post punk, so whatever you like, you’ll probably hear. Whatever you don’t like, you’ll hear that too. They might want to settle on a theme…
Event Alerts: And there aren’t many this month. On February 27 Bar Fogo, the bar at Fogo de Chao, will host a Carnival-themed event – from 6:30 to 8:30, two caipirinha cocktails and a selection of bar bites are only $29. I think many who attend might be tempted to stay for dinner, which is probably what they have in mind. No reservations necessary… That’s the same day that Ryla will present “A Celebration of Japanese Whiskey”, a multi-course tasting dinner paired with five fine single malts. Japanese whiskies are world class and becoming better known in the United States, and this is an opportunity to learn about their character. Price is $150 – their notification doesn’t say whether that includes tax and tip or not. Reservations may be made by calling the restaurant or emailing to cynthia@eatryla.com, and you can ask. There are only thirty seats, so act soon… On March 12 Primo Italia offers a wine dinner with Tenuta Regeleali, a winery in the mountains of central Sicily. Members of the family who have owned this winery since 1830 will be on hand to explain their wines at this multicourse dinner – price is $162 inclusive, reservation link HERE… And on March 14, Fleming’s on Rosecrans presents Empowered Pours, a wine pairing dinner featuring women-owned Duckhorn Vineyards and Mumm Napa. The four courses are inspired by Julia Child and Alice Waters, a very fitting combination. Price is $145 plus tax and tip, about $170 – reserve on Fleming’s website HERE…
Odds and Ends: It’s a bit outside our coverage area, but a pair of longtime Torrance favorites are facing the wrecking ball. Aliotta’s Via Firenze and Thai Rama are both closing on June 1 so the area can be redeveloped, and for Via Firenze it’s permanent. Thai Rama plans to move and reopen, but at this time they don’t have a location figured out. I hear that there are spaces available near the beach in Hermosa, and it would certainly bring something different to the neighborhood… And I need to acknowledge an error in last week’s article – I said that BeachLife Grotto has the only upstairs deck in Riviera Village. This is incorrect, as there is also one at Redondo Beach Brewing. Thanks to the sharp-eyed reader who corrected me… And if you’re cruising east on Artesia past the Galleria and want a snack or dessert, you might stop by Cake Garden bakery, which opened a while ago at the corner of Grevillea. They have Indian-style savory pastries as well as desserts, and I think they’re a nice addition to the neighborhood…
And In Closing: If you know a restaurant opening I might’ve missed, a culinary event that should be covered, or just about anything related to food that I should know about, please send the information my way. I’m at richard@richardfoss.com. And as long as you’re on the internet, check out past restaurant reviews on our website at easyreadernews.com/restaurants. ER
