Carpet weavers in Persia leave one, tiny flaw in their patterns, reasoning that only God can create perfection. This is handy for modern connoisseurs as a way of detecting counterfeits. Flawlessly symmetrical carpets are the product of machine looms that care nothing for theology.
This probably explains the menu at Baran’s 2239, a new restaurant that is otherwise close to perfect. The flaw in this case is minimalism taken to the extreme, so that no matter what an item is, it is described only by three ingredients no matter how many there actually are, with no hint of how they’re prepared. This would be fine in a diner where “burger, fries, and salad” really tells you what you need to know, but some items here have very unusual preparations. As an example, the item called an Indian egg, described only as “lamb sausage/curry jus/cucumber,” is actually an exotic twist on the Scotch egg, which is usually a bland pub snack that needs to be washed down by several beers. This version is beautifully presented and fragrant with South Asian spices. When one was delivered at a neighboring table the scent was beguiling.
This dish and almost everything else at Baran’s 2239 is a creation of chef Tyler Gugliotta, an underappreciated master who ran the kitchen at The Shore and several other local restaurants, including the highly touted, but ill-fated Brix@1601. He teamed up with Jason Baran and other members of the Baran family to open this restaurant in a strip mall on PCH in Hermosa Beach. Something about this environment and management has set Gugliotta free, and he’s doing the most accomplished cooking of his career.
That doesn’t mean that everything is complex. One of the things that grabs your attention right at the beginning of the meal is the simplest. The fresh-baked focaccia may be the best bread I’ve had in the South Bay, crunchy-crisp outside with a perfect light interior, and it’s served with a bright orange herb butter that has a cheesey richness. Yes, it’s $5 for four pieces of focaccia, but trust me, it’s worth it.
That bread reflects Tyler’s Italian heritage, and so does the spigarello with cauliflower, white beans, and breadcrumbs. Spigarello is an heirloom cousin to broccoli that is slightly more fibrous but less bitter. It shines in this simple rustic Mediterranean preparation. Mine had a bit of char that suggested it had briefly hit the grill or been pan-seared before being combined with the other ingredients along with some garlic and a little oil.
Another standout starter is the endive leaves topped with goat cheese, peas and pea tendrils, strawberries, almonds, and mint – an odd but successful combination of bitter greens, funky cheese, and sweet fruit and vegetables. The strawberries are briefly roasted to make them aromatic and concentrate the flavor, and lightly peppered to give just a hint of sharpness. It’s a complex and flawless harmony, and yes, I’m about to use the word perfect again.
The entrees also include some very simple dishes. The house spaghetti is described as being made with pancetta, tomato jus, and parmesan, and that tells you everything that’s going on here but the dots of basil oil that decorate the plate and provide aroma. I recommend ordering this the way Italians do, as a simple refreshing shared plate between more strongly flavored starters and main courses.
Those bolder items include a remarkable multi-step fried chicken, which is first smoked and then fried, then coated with a soy sauce and chile gastrique. This has layers of flavor and you can perceive them all: lightly smoky, rich chicken overlaid by a cornmeal crust with herbs, overlaid with the sweet and spicy and salty sauce. There was plenty of meat on the half bird we were served, but we were finding new flavors all the way to the last bite.
Another item that was a special on one visit was pork jowl with gooseberries, a dish some people might find challenging. Jowl meat is fatty and so tender that it’s slightly gelatinous, but the tart berries made a fine contrast to the rich flavors. Gooseberry season is short and supplies are limited, but if you like variety meats and new experiences you should see if this is available.
Baran’s 2239 doesn’t serve hard liquor but has a well-curated list of beers, wine, and cider, almost all available in four or six ounce pours, as well as by the bottle. We tried the Virginia Dare and Decelle Villa Pinot Noirs to experience an old and new world expression of the same grape, and both went quite nicely with the chicken. Our server suggested Curran Grenache Blanc with the endive and strawberry dish, and we admired his wine savvy because it was a splendid choice. Most of the people who work here seem to be extended family. They know every item and explain it clearly. They make up for the terse menu very well, though it must take a lot of extra time and training.
I’ve tried two desserts, an orange-pistachio panna cotta and coffee-toffee pudding cake. The latter was my wife’s idea and I regarded it with trepidation, as toffee isn’t one of my favorite items. Surprise, this one wasn’t over-sweet and the espresso glaze made it a delight. The creamy panna cotta was topped with artistically arranged ground nuts and dollops of jellied citrus. Now that I know this can be done I want to explore these flavors more.
Dinner at Baran’s 2239 is remarkably reasonable for cooking of this quality. We paid an average of about $50 per person with moderate portions of wine and cider. High style has come to the highway in Hermosa. It’s an almost perfect experience, and you don’t have to fight for parking downtown to enjoy it.
Baran’s 2239 is at 502 Pacific Coast Highway in Hermosa. Open Tues. – Sun. at 5 p.m. Closes 10 p.m. Tues. – Thurs. and Sun. 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Parking lot, wheelchair access OK, wine and beer served. Menu (unpriced) at Barans2239.com, phone 424-247-8468.
