A fresh crew was here. Arriving late last night, KenJen Miller, ripping charger of only 5 years and charger Kristina Chang and her beau, the Dickeys, a couple of lovebird pairs from San Diego, and a twosome from Peru were all amped and ready to dive into the highly sought after Couples Week at Cardon resort (I myself made Larry the Lizard my honorary soulmate for the time being, even though he tried to bite my finger off yesterday).
Bruised rib from a bump on the board yesterday and being pressed up against a 9’6 plank of fiberglass way too often, I took over for resort manager Jeff and offered to give Sharon, one of the San Diegans, lessons while the frothing just-barely-arrived group started their paddle into the faraway lineup. Retired naval officers Sharon and husband Ralph enlisted in Morgan’s beach bootcamp, and we practiced paddle and pop up drills, the 60 year old yogi Sharon perfectly poised, balanced, and centered on every swift jump to her feet. I’m not a regular student, but I explained the similarities between yoga and surfing, and how flow and your breath is one of the most important parts in each. I swam against the dragging current next to her, pushing her into reforming whitewater, her smile getting bigger and bigger with each paddle back from riding a wave. Soon after it was time for a few of my own, and I carried my board down to the water, and thinking about the ridiculous injuries I’ve had all week. As I walked down, intent on floating around a bit more gracefully for the rest of my stay, I (no bullshit) stepped on a massive crab claw with a sharp spine on it that lodged in my foot. I pulled it out and nearly laughed as blood started dripping out of the small hole.
Every rose (and crab claw) has its thorns apparently. I looked at the surrounding beach and the stunning Cardon Resort backdrop, and said “screw it,” padding out for a few bloody and bruised lines and practicing a little perseverance. It could always be worse. I could be uninjured but not in Mexico, surfing a perfect left reefbreak. I think I’ll happily take a couple gashes and holes with a heavy helping of waves.
