The Beach Cities are noteworthy for their lack of fast food chain restaurants in our downtowns – there are plenty on PCH, but not a single one west of the highway. There used to be one exception, a Taco Bell south of the pier in downtown Hermosa. They served mediocre Americanized tacos and burritos to hungry but penurious musicians at the Lighthouse and adjacent clubs and were popular with the eccentric dwellers in the then-shabby hotel above what is now Waterman’s. One hotel resident ran a clothesline on pulleys from a second-floor window to the Taco Bell order window, paying with bills on a clothespin and hauling up burritos. This was referred to as room service by the people who lived there, and was popular until some party pooper cut the cord.
That Taco Bell went out of business in about 1979, to be replaced by a homegrown alternative called Scotty’s on the Strand. Scotty’s was a distinct upgrade, selling fairly standard diner food and Italian-American items that were just a little more pricey than average because of the unrivaled view of the beach. They got a beer and wine license in the ‘80s, and were successful enough to double the size of the dining area in the early 2000s Scotty’s has been one of the few Pier-area businesses to remain mostly unchanged. It is a landmark for locals who frequent the place from morning until night.
There are two indoor dining areas – the original room with coffee shop style booths, and the brighter enclosed patio space that has the advantage of floor to ceiling windows with a beach view. There are also outdoor tables that are particularly popular on weekend mornings, when they offer an unrivaled view of the parade of pedestrians, bikers, skaters, and dog walkers. I tend to favor the original area because I like the old school decor and roomy tables, but to each their own.
My favorite starters are the fried zucchini, which are egg dipped and rolled in seasoned tempura crumbs before frying, and the “heart of my heart” artichoke hearts that are rolled in the same crumb mix, and served with lemon butter, and parmesan cheese. Pro tip: if you get the artichoke hearts, ask for the lemon butter on the side. It’s a great pairing with the artichoke hearts, but an order usually arrives from the kitchen drenched in butter, and that both overwhelms the vegetable flavor and makes the batter soggy. The artichoke hearts tend to be in large chunks, and are best eaten as finger food, so having them arrive slippery and shedding the coating increases the likelihood that some will end up on your shirt or in your lap.
A variety of salads are offered as starters too, but keep in mind that a small salad can be added to most meals for two and a half bucks. The dressings are made in house and the caesar is very good, the blue cheese a bit mild.
The daily specials have been unchanged long enough that people set their schedules around them, showing up on Thursdays for the famously good roast chicken special, or Monday for the all-you-can-eat spaghetti, both modestly priced at $13.95.
We recently dined on a Thursday to have that chicken special, but they were out of it when we arrived. They did offer a chicken marsala, so one of our party gave that a whirl. The Marsala wine was used sparingly in the sauce so it didn’t have the big wine flavor, but capers and mushrooms made it balanced and enjoyable. The marsala special came with a generous portion of lightly cooked herbed vegetables, mashed potatoes, and garlic toast, and was a very full meal. The other main courses we tried fit the Italian-American theme, a seafood spaghetti and an eggplant parmesan that arrived with a side of spaghetti in marinara sauce. My wife enjoys eggplant parmesan and is likely to order it almost anywhere it’s offered, and she approved of this version. There was a comparatively light coating of cheese, so the naturally sweet tomato sauce and dash of chopped scallions put vegetable flavors front and center. The portion was large, but she finished it off with gusto.
We were also happy with the seafood linguini, which had large chunks of fish, plenty of shrimp, and a few scallops along with carrots, bell pepper, and onions in that same marinara sauce. The only thing the kitchen should reconsider is the size of the carrot chunks, which were enormous. I’d rather enjoy the blend of flavors rather than alternate the carrot with other items. These were so big they were nearly a mouthful by themselves.
One thing that has changed is the alcohol service. I remember the wine here used to be mini-bottles of pretty mediocre stuff, but they now have a larger selection by the glass, carafe, or bottle. Scotty’s isn’t going to win awards for their wine list, but there are now enough choices there, and among the beers to satisfy those who like everyday drinks paired with their meals. The Cedar Brook Pinot Noir was reasonably priced at $28 a bottle and went nicely with our main courses.
Since we had leaned on the Italian side of the menu at dinner, I returned at lunch to try a mainstay of their meals: their burger. It was a good-sized patty at a third of a pound, and cooked the medium rare that was requested. I had ordered the blue cheese and bacon version with light mayo, and the juicy patty made it a messy but tasty midday meal. The fries arrived very hot and crisp, just as I like them, and I had to restrain myself from eating them all after I was full.
That burger cost eighteen bucks, the dinners all around twenty, modest for the area. The real value here is having a place that has stayed so consistently good while retaining its unpretentious character when all around it have gone upscale. Locals like it just as it is, a place with the character and appeal that no chain joint can ever aspire to.
Scotty’s on The Strand is at 1100 Strand in Hermosa. Open daily 6:30 a.m – 10 p.m. Parking lot access from 11th Street. Wheelchair access good. Beer and wine, some vegetarian items. Scottysonthestrand.com. (310) 318-7152. ER
