In some of my columns I have lamented the quality of service in the South Bay. I have encountered waiters who didn’t know anything about the food they were serving, and who seemed puzzled that someone thought they ought to learn. When a diner asks for a recommendation and is told that “everything is good,” or gets a vague, “we sell a lot of this,” they feel that they can’t be in a very good restaurant since the people who should know the food best are so unenthusiastic.
Occasionally I run across someone who goes to the opposite extreme, as happened recently at Luna Rossa. We visited the restaurant on the second floor of the Promenade Center on a Friday night when the place was fairly lively and almost left because it was so loud. (The front door is by the bar, and a large party was having a boisterous evening.) We were shown to the slightly quieter main room and given menus by an energetic Italian server who introduced himself as Gabriel. The offerings were strictly traditional, not California Italian or exotic fusion, so we decided to ask our server for suggestions.
We knew we had a pro immediately. Gabriel explained the specials, letting us know the branzino was the tastiest fish available but had lots of bones, so if we preferred a filet we should select the sole. He poured water, brought bread, and left us to plan the meal. When he returned to take the order, we told him what we had selected, then asked his opinion. He did not hesitate – we had ordered a pasta and a salad that were too heavy taken together, and had we considered the veal instead of the chicken dish? We decided to take his suggestions, asked him to select wines, and watched to see what happened.
The ortolana salad he brought was indeed a good light starter, a large portion of fresh, clean vegetable flavors. The eggplant had a rich smoky flavor, the roasted bell pepper a touch of sweetness, and the field greens, goat cheese, and dressing were all in harmony. It would have been a mammoth portion for one but was quite enough for two or three to share. We asked for glasses of one Italian and one California white, and were surprised when he said he thought the American Chardonnays would be better with this starter. (In my experience, most Italians don’t hesitate to promote products from their country.) The Pinot Grigio and Rodney Strong Chardonnay each complemented the dish in their own way, though when the pasta arrived the California was the clear favorite.
We had selected penne amatriciana, tube pasta with bacon, Pecorino cheese, and tomato, a simple Southern Italian favorite. It was well made, the cheese melted into the sauce to give it body while accenting the fresh tomato. Here the Chardonnay was superior, full enough in flavor to complement the sauce while the Pinot disappeared in comparison.
For dinner my wife had selected the sole in lemon caper sauce, while I had veal picatta. Both dishes involve a sauce with capers, and while the sole was delightful, the salty, slightly pickled flavors overwhelmed the taste of the veal. This was a shame because it seemed to be good quality meat and was served fork tender. Both plates were nicely filled out with roasted potatoes and vegetables, and the portions were ample. Gabriel recommended a Coppola Cabernet and a powerful super Tuscan blend, and we were surprised at how well both assertive wines went with the citrusy and salty flavors.
After a complimentary glass of limoncello, the lemony Italian aperitif, we settled on desserts of a strawberry tiramisu and a daily special pastry called sfogliatelle. Sfogliatelle are made with many crisp layers of dough around ricotta cheese with citron. It is one of my favorite desserts when freshly made, and though this one was commercially made it did come straight from the oven. The tiramisu was less satisfying, sweet and out of balance without the shot of espresso powder to balance the custard. The fruit was drizzled with a thick syrup when a drizzle of chocolate and dusting of espresso would have been a much better.
Our dinner for two ran $135 with four glasses of wine, reasonable for excellent service in an upscale environment. Though not everything that came from the kitchen hit the spot with us, this kitchen has talent and the high points were good indeed. Luna Rossa is very promising, and if they fine tune their execution, they can make a landmark in this difficult location.
Luna Rossa is at 550 Deep Valley Drive in Rolling Hills, up the escalator from the east side. Open daily at 11:30 AM for lunch and dinner, full bar, parking in adjacent lot. Elevator nearby, wheelchair access good. Corkage $15. Phone 310-377-0202. ER
