It is sometimes oddly hard to get my fellow South Bay locals to come to the horseshoe pier. Yes, the parking system is annoying, and we’re not too likely to buy anything made in China and marked “Souvenir of Redondo Beach,” but there is plenty to love about this historic structure. It’s not just for tourists – it’s marvelously peaceful to be there after dark, whether enjoying the kitschy shops, strolling the quiet north end listening to sea lions barking in the distance, or having a meal at one of the restaurants with a view of both the sea and the lights of the place we call home.
I haven’t usually counted Kincaid’s among my regular haunts after having some uninspired meals there a few years ago, but I had heard that a new chef named Armen Jedhelian had moved in and was adding interesting items to the specials menu. One evening when life was hectic and some chill-out time with seafood and a glass of wine was in order, my wife and I decided to see if the new guy was making a difference.
We showed up without a reservation and were told that it would be a while but we could wait in the bar. It was a busy night with a special event going on, but the wait was still a bit excessive – it took about fifteen minutes for anyone to acknowledge us and offer menus. The server who did was named Jenny, and she was both friendly and professional. She suggested a starter of smoked salmon with potato chips made in-house, which we ordered along with a Manhattan and a Moscow Mule. The bar here is impressive but not particularly well-stocked – perhaps they were temporarily low as there were many bottles of the same liquor on the wall. Our cocktails were competently made, and the ginger beer in the mule was housemade, so there is some ambition here.
The smoked salmon did not start things off well – from the menu description we had expected the fish to be accompanied by capers, preserved lemon, and cornichons along with the chips, but the fish had been chopped and pressed into a disc along with the capers and lemon, then topped with crème fraiche and sprigs of dill. The cornichons were sitting in a big dollop of mustard, and chips and cucumber slices were on the side. I would have much preferred to be able to taste the fish and mix it with other ingredients to my liking. As it was the ingredients didn’t have much to do with each other, and I have no idea what the mustard was for – it didn’t go with anything. The chips were hot and fresh, and the ingredients for a good appetizer were there, but it just didn’t come together.
At about the time we finished the starter a server came to tell us that a table was ready, so we moved into the main dining room. Another server named Jessie took over, and though she wasn’t quite as effusive as Jenny she was helpful and knew the menu well. The standard items here are about what you’d expect from a waterfront restaurant with a corporate office– steaks, prime rib, and lots of seafood, most simply grilled. Though I had heard about the new chef’s contributions, the most interesting starter was on the regular menu – a salad of water chestnuts, peas, and bacon with a creamy pepper dressing. This confounded our expectations, as the pepper in the dressing was subtly used and the water chestnuts were actually the largest component of the flavor. The bacon was there but deftly used – it’s such a hip ingredient these days that the sweet smokiness is often allowed to run wild, but it completed the flavors of the dish.
For main courses we had a daily special of grilled wild salmon with fingerling potatoes, grilled onion, and blackberry sauce, while I had a chef’s special of roasted garlic-crusted mahi mahi along with green beans, almonds, and Okinawan silky potatoes. I had considered several items but the potatoes sealed the deal – I had tried them roasted at an Okinawan restaurant and thought they were delicious. They still were, but here they were served mashed, which accented the starchiness. The other elements of the meal were in excellent balance, the fish crusted in mild garlic that didn’t overpower it, and served with a Frangelico butter sauce that added a nutty sweetness.
The grilled salmon was even better, that sauce slightly reduced to concentrate it but not so sweet that the fish was overpowered. Chef Armen knows his business – there were full flavors in balance here, and the light dusting of herbs added to the interest of the dish. I assume this dish will be offered for a limited time based on the availability of fresh salmon, but if it is available you should get it.
Kincaid’s has a good by-the-glass list and an impressive selection of bottles, including some high-enders; we were happy with a Byron pinot noir and a Black Beret blend, but would have enjoyed the chance to explore further.
Dessert was a peach cobbler that had a very good crust, but the fruit was in a syrup that was too strongly concentrated for my taste – it was like peach candy rather than the essence of peach. I enjoyed the slices of fresh peach served on the side along with nibbles of crust and lamented that I cut down the peach tree in my backyard.
Dinner for two with two cocktails and two glasses of wine ran $135, of which about $40 was drinks. It was a pleasant chance to taste the artistry of someone who is making very good food in a chain restaurant, and I’d consider going again to see what else he does.
Kincaid’s is at 500 Fisherman’s Wharf, at the north end of the pier. Parking in adjacent lot, wheelchair access is good.. Corkage $15, full bar. Partial menu at kincaids.com, phone 310-318-6080. ER
