Alligator on a stick? This is the place.
I have a feeling about New Orleans that approximates the way medieval pilgrims must have felt about Canterbury; everything about the place refreshes me spiritually, makes me feel in the presence of greatness. Forget New York, set aside even my beloved Los Angeles – the center of American culture and cuisine is by that big muddy river.
So I am mystified that there are not Louisiana-style restaurants in every city in America, places where the deep, complex, down-home flavors are celebrated. With the Ragin Cajun now operating as a food truck, there are only two Cajun restaurants you don’t have to chase around, both in Hermosa. Café Boogaloo serves a modernized version that includes pizzas and wraps, while New Orleans Cuisine stays tight with tradition. I respect innovation, but there are days when I want my culture straight, and on one such evening I high-tailed it to the little storefront on Pier Avenue with the neon alligator.
Nothing had changed since I first started going there – the long lunch counter might have had a few more chips in the paint, perhaps another dent in the stainless steel plate behind the stove. Style-conscious Hermosa Beach is all outside – in here, it’s comfortable and unpretentious. We were handed dog-eared menus and left to make some difficult decisions. The prices are eccentric at first glance. Some starters are priced higher than main courses, and an appetizer bowl of gumbo is $20.00, while a main course of the same gumbo is priced at $26 – an unusually small difference. After considering frog legs, crabcakes, or sausages that they boast are imported from New Orleans, we decided on alligator on a stick for $17.00. Admittedly, we had done this for the novelty value – I have tried alligator before, usually grilled, and found it to be not particularly flavorful and often tough. We sipped from glasses of wine and soft drinks while joking that we might want to limber up our jaws to deal with the notoriously rubbery appetizer we had just ordered.
We were agreeably surprised by the two skewers of meat that arrived – they had been breaded with a mild batter instead of grilled and were very tender, tasting similar to good veal. Whether it was the fact that it had been deep-fried rather than grilled or some other alchemy in this kitchen, it was the best I’ve ever had. We had no need for the lemon wedges and remoulade that were provided, though I tried both with one of the crispy hush puppies just to check. The remoulade was also good with the French bread that had arrived along with our drinks. (Though they offer Abita beer, New Orleans’ best, we had chosen wine. On reflection I’d get an Abita next time because it is such a good match with this cuisine.)
Salads arrived shortly afterward – included with most meals, and our server decided to give me one for free too just because he was feeling benevolent that day. The homemade blue cheese was excellent, but the “Cajun Caesar balsamic dressing” was not a hit with me; the balsamic sweetness overwhelmed the other flavors in the dressing.
For main courses we picked a bowl of gumbo, a plate of fried chicken, and barbecued ribs with red beans and rice on the side. The gumbo was impressive, a very large bowl of smoky, spicy stew laden with sausage, chicken, shrimp, and crab. This was the real article, complex and satisfying, served in a portion was so huge that I was sated after only half a bowl. I might have been very happy to share this with someone- it would be a bargain of a dinner at the price.
The fried chicken hit the spot too; it was a plump half bird, delivered hot, crisp, and without even a spot of grease on the plate, which takes near-miraculous skill in the kitchen. The batter had some zip from Cajun seasonings but was not overwhelming – you could still taste the chicken, and it was delicious. My wife had ordered this with their macaroni and cheese on the side, and she received a big, dense brick of cheesey, creamy goodness.
I had been dubious about the ribs because I have never had outstanding barbecue in New Orleans; that town seems seafood-centric, and better ‘que is available in the states on all sides. After the appetizer I was quite ready to enjoy a surprise, but alas, the ribs were undistinguished, with a somewhat bland brown sugar based sauce over ribs that had only a slight smoke flavor. They were not bad, but not up to the standard of our other entrees. The red beans and rice were far better, a simple dish that is so very enjoyable when done this well. As with everything else we had, the portion was substantial, and we all gave up at about the halfway point on our meals.
Dessert was offered, but we laughed at the very possibility of ordering it – no matter how good the bread pudding sounded, we were stuffed. The next time I’m here, we’ll share dishes so we can explore the desserts and the other starters more fully.
We left New Orleans Cuisine with that profound sense of well-being you get from expertly made Louisiana comfort food, mouths still tingling from tangy spices. I haven’t actually been to New Orleans for over a decade, but this outpost of excellence refreshed all my good memories. Dinner for three (that was actually enough food for four or five) ran just over $130.00 – a reasonable price for a lot of food with American culinary heritage on the side.
New Orleans Cajun Cuisine is at 140 Pier Avenue in Hermosa – open Wednesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Street parking only, wheelchair access OK to most tables, beer and wine served. Menu at NewOrleansHermosa.com – phone 310-372-8970.
