Brooke Williamson is one of the South Bay chefs who has had a taste of media stardom – after her stint on the show Top Chef aired, people who had never tasted her food before came from all over greater Los Angeles to try it for themselves. Brooke has an amazing resume that includes stints at Michael’s in Santa Monica and Restaurant Daniel in New York, and she and husband Nick Roberts both worked in the kitchens at prestigious restaurants Zax, Amuse Café, and Beechwood. When they opened Hudson House in Redondo Beach it was to take that sophistication to a gastropub format, but a few years ago they opened a second restaurant that offers more sophisticated and adventurous meals. That restaurant, The Tripel, has become a destination for people who want to see what else this talented pair can do.
The small restaurant a few blocks from the beach on Culver Avenue in Playa del Rey looks somber from the outside, the black building with dark windows suggesting an old fashioned dark dive with a muted atmosphere. The actual experience at The Tripel couldn’t be more different; on almost every evening the bar and shared tables will be abuzz with conversation. It’s a lively place with more than a passing resemblance to the bistros of Brussels, the city obsessed with gastronomy and great beer.
The Tripel is named after a strong, fruity pale ale that is a Belgian specialty, and a few items on the menu celebrate the famously good food of that country, but most of the menu is contemporary and globalized. The concept is popular enough that they’re full almost every night.
We started a recent dinner for three with beet cured salmon, a summer corn salad, and charred baby octopus salad over crispy tomato couscous. The octopus divided our party; two of us thought it was brilliant, the green olives and feta cheese in a spicy vinaigrette an inspired combination with the seafood and couscous, but my wife found the pickled flavors and red pepper too strong. There was consensus on the other two items – adding celery salted popcorn to a salad made with fresh corn, pea tendrils, and heirloom tomato was a stroke of genius. It added a texture and flavor that made every bite a delight, the fresh cool natural corn and fluffy popcorn great together. The salmon was a hit too, the topping of shredded zucchini, crunchy smoked fennel, and crumbed olive bread an excellent contrast to the salmon marinated in sweet beet juice.
We paired our starters with drinks from the extensive list – as might be expected from a place named after a style of beer, they specialize in arcane brews, but they also have beer-based cocktails. I had Sour Grapes – Belgian ale, Madeira wine, and Luxardo liqueur – while my companions had wine and a concoction of peach beer, peach juice, and Spanish sparkling wine. Both cocktails were delicious and unusual, good enough to encourage home mixologists to start experimenting with beer. I’d venture to say that most people who tried Sour Grapes wouldn’t guess that beer was one of the main components; it’s a tart, fruity concoction that is unlike almost anything else I have tried.
We continued our meal with a Tripel burger – made with layers of duck confit, pork, and beef topped with pecorino cheese and apricot jam; a lamb burger; and a pan of waterzooi, Belgian chicken stew. The half-chicken was partially submerged in a broth containing carrots, leeks, lemon juice, and egg, and it was delightful – I can’t figure out why this item isn’t more popular in California, because it’s delicious. It was served with a crisp potato pancake on top, which added another texture to an alluring dish.
The lamb burger was more traditionally Mediterranean, served with cucumbers and a sauce of yoghurt, honey, and Moroccan hot sauce, a combination that hit the buttons for spicy, sweet, and cooling all at once. As for the three meat burger, it was extremely rich; if you like full, meaty flavors, this is heaven on a plate, but our appetites weren’t up to finishing it. Desserts were offered, and they sounded alluring, but a starter and main course was ample.
We enjoyed the meal so much that we came back for a weekend brunch, a meal that many of their evening clientele don’t seem to know is available. The place was empty at 11 a.m., though a trickle of customers arrived while we dined. I was attracted to the Earl Grey oats and amaranth porridge, but decided on duck hash topped with a fried egg instead, while my wife had a Croque Madame, the French sandwich of ham, gruyere cheese, and a fried egg. Croque Madames in France are usually served with a meager portion of ham, a taste of smoke and pork rather than a big chunk of protein, but the amount here was more substantial. Along with the arugula salad it was a simple, hearty meal, showing that the kitchen staff knows when to leave a good idea alone.
The duck hash was a bit more baroque, lobster salted baby potatoes, pancetta and duck, and greens cooked in vinegar topped with a fried egg and served with drizzles of pumpkin seed sauce and a harissa hot sauce for dipping. The vinegared greens and rich duck were a great pairing, and this was one of the best breakfasts I’ve had all year. Along with bellinis and a cup of freshly made and bracingly strong coffee, it was a great way to start the day. If you have wanted to try The Tripel but have been deterred by the lines in the evening, the weekend brunch may be your chance at instant gratification.
The prices by day and by night are very modest – $9 to $14 for brunch. At dinner main courses and substantial starters run between $10 and $18, with most toward the low end of that range. It’s a pittance for fantastic food in pleasant surroundings, and a chance to savor another side of two of the South Bay’s most popular chefs.
The Tripel is at 333 Culver Boulevard, Playa del Rey – open daily for dinner, Fri-Sun for brunch. Beer and wine served, street parking. Menu at thetripel.com, phone 310-821-0333.
