Here comes the sun, and the swells

by Mike Durand

Tuesday evening in El Porto gives a hint of what to expect for the coming week. Photo by Brent Broza (BrozaPhoto.com)

More swell, more off shores, more sunny skies and most importantly, no more rain. For the first time in a long time I am truly terrified to surf in the rain or just after it rains. My last bout with an ocean related, bacteria based illness lasted over a week and kicked my ass. You can roll the dice if you want, but sooner or later you’ll get caught with your hand in the cookie jar. Shoot, I even ordered a few different nose clips online just to give it a try. The next step will be surfing in a hazmat suit.

Anyway, excuse me as I climb down from my soap box. Enjoy the next few days, it looks lie an all systems go scenario.

Thursday morning will see a temporary dip in size, but tide permitting, the top West facing spots should continue to dish up shoulder to head high plus sets.

Also entering the mix will be some new pulses from the SW. An out of season swell will move up the line from a fairly liberal angle of 190-210 degrees and help to keep the South facing breaks in the game.

The tides will cut a little slack to the dawn patrollers with a slow ride throughout the morning culminating in a 5.69 feet High Tide at 9:44 a.m.

The conditions look great on paper again with moderate winds out of the NE/NNE at 6-8 m.p.h. until around 1 p.m. At that point breezes are to turn WNW, but remain light for the remainder of the afternoon. It looks like we’ll see sunny skies and an air temp of 65 degrees.

Friday morning holds promise as some fresh, longer interval, NW energy fills in though the day. The top West facing spots should start out chest to shoulder high for the a.m. session and we’ll see well overhead sets by sundown.

The SW energy will get a bit more consistent and should put the good South facing breaks into the waist to chest high zone. Some of the combo spots may conjure up some nice A-Frames.

The tides shouldn’t really be an issue unless you’re not a morning person.

The conditions won’t change much with continued winds out of the NE/NNE at 6-8 m.p.h. until around 1 p.m. and fairly mild on shores into the afternoon. We should see another, mostly sunny day and an air temp of 63 degrees. By Saturday morning things will begin to slowly wind down, but the best breaks should have no shortage of swell. Look for top spots to go shoulder to head high plus. There should even be some sporadic pulses out of the South, so it’ll definitely be worth a check.

The conditions don’t look quite as stellar as they were earlier in the week, but should still be pretty damn good. The morning will see variable winds out of the East at 3-5 m.p.h. until noon. The wind then will go SW at 4-6 m.p.h. until sundown. The air temp will dip back down to 59 degrees.

Sunday morning looks a hair smaller, with chest to shoulder high waves for the top spots. Tides and conditions should be good so plan on another fun day of waves.

The conditions look great on paper again with stiff winds out of the NE/NNE at 6-8 m.p.h. until around 1 p.m.. At that point breezes are to turn WNW, but remain light for the remainder of the afternoon. It looks like we’ll see cloudy skies and an air temp of 60 degrees.

The current water temps are as follows: south Bay 56, Newport 54, Huntington 56, Santa Monica 56 degrees and Malibu 57 degrees.

Check www.swellmagnet.com for daily forecast updates, surf reports and HD, live streaming beach cams from Newport to Malibu. To try a month for free just email shane@swellmagnet.com with a user/password. Follow on Twitter and Facebook for updates and exclusive offers. ER

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