Yesterday’s mystospot had a rush of saltwater flowing through my veins, and I just couldn’t get enough of the magic of the sacred longboard haven. Eager to do another wavedance, an inevitable round 2 down south came to fruition.
Paul Roustan of www.bumpsetsurf.com and I hit the 405 with some chocolate milk, coffee and his brand new surfboard shaped by Ryan Harris, founder of E-Tech boards. Shane Jones, owner of JoneSea wetsuits, met us in the parking lot and we hit the smaller than expected but nevertheless shapely and radiant waves. The lineup was full of incredible talent, and Shane was doing what he does best — which included surfing so well that he made absolutely everyone else look bad. Paul caught a couple glorious breakers on his new baby, and he was extremely happy with the way it performed.
Another 4 hours of constant paddling and wave catching went by in a blink. The sweltering sun was out all day, and by the time noon hit, many overheated loggers exited the break just to come right back out sans wetsuit (in chilly 59 degree water), and I even had to change out of my fullsuit and hop into a shorty. The icy pacific has honestly never felt better, and I remember getting back in the water with the words “I feel so alive” escaping my mouth.
The day disappeared with a quickness, and after lunch, giant mimosas, and lingering in the lot with a friendly squad of surfers, we realized it was nearly 2 p.m. Paul and I flew home, high on yet another day of epic rides, dreaming of and planning new adventures for the days to come.
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