There are times when I get so excited by the upscale and creative experiences around town that I run reviews after review on high-end restaurants. At such times, people ask, “Don’t you ever eat normal food like we mere mortals?” I do.
Calimex has in business for over 40 years in the same location on Artesia Boulevard in North Redondo. I remember riding my bicycle there when I was in high school, and ordering the same items that I get there now. Only the prices have changed, and they haven’t changed all that much. I could afford two tacos and an iced tea for what I earned mowing the neighbor’s lawn, and if I felt like mowing lawns again, I probably still could.
The best part of eating at Calimex, the thing that brought me there rather than to other budget Mexican restaurants, arrived even before my order was placed. That’s the chips, always crisp and warm, with not one but two salsas – a mild version that still has enough pepper, onion, and cilantro to be interesting, and a very zippy hot version with a full complement of roasted chilies. I may debate the merits of tostadas or burritos at other Mexican restaurants in the South Bay, but I’ll stand firm that the one-two punch of salsas here is the best in town.
After that, there’s the combination that I almost always order – the quesadilla especial and a chicken taco. The quesadilla especial is composed of two small flour tortillas, cheese, and crumbled bacon, topped by sour cream and guacamole. (Sometimes on the guacamole – apparently one cook puts it on, the other doesn’t. Ask for it, because it is good guac and it makes everything complete.) It’s simple and good, basic Mexican flavors with the addition of bacon, nature’s wonder food. Put it alongside a chicken taco (crisp shell gringo variety) and you have a good light lunch that leaves you change from your ten-spot.
In decades of dining here, I’ve tried just about everything on the menu, and some items are better than others. The burritos, for instance, are pretty good when topped by the green sauce, but nothing special when topped with their bland red. The enchiladas are considerably better than the burritos, and best when made just with cheese or with chicken. The beef isn’t awful, just lacking in seasoning, and a little garlic and pepper would improve things.
The item that can really sway me from my typical quesadilla and taco meal, though, is the carnitas – and therein lies a mystery. Almost every Mexican restaurant serves carnitas daily, but it’s a special here, offered once or twice a week depending on the whim of the cook. When he does deign to make some, it’s great, the slightly crispy, chewy version rather than simple soft roast pork. I have asked why they don’t serve carnitas more often, and was told if I want it on a day they aren’t serving it, I can go down the street to Las Brisas, the other restaurant that is owned by the same family. Las Brisas is good, a little fancier and the service a little slower the last time I was there, but Calimex carnitas I want. Keep an eye on the specials board, and if it is offered, get it.
To accompany my meal, there is beer, wine, tea, and soft drinks – alas, no horchata, jamaica, or tamarindo. As much as I appreciate the unchanging nature of the menu here, I do wish they’d consider adding some Mexican fruit drinks – they’re healthy as well as refreshing.
Calimex is like a lot of little cafes, an everyday pleasure where the food is a little better than it needs to be. The price is low enough to be competitive with the places that serve junk food in Styrofoam, but it tastes fresh and is much better than anything you’re going to be served by a pointy-headed clown or talking Chihuahua. Some days, that’s exactly what I want, traditional and unpretentious food at a price that doesn’t make my wallet scream, and when I get that urge, Calimex is one of my regular destinations.
Calimex is at 2217 Artesia in North Redondo, next to the post office. Parking in rear. Open daily 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., wheelchair access OK, beer and wine served. Some vegetarian items. (310) 370-4374.
