Chef Alice Mai earns all the praise at Attagirl
by Richard Foss
There’s a multilingual pun in Attagirl, the name of the restaurant in Hermosa helmed by Chef Alice Mai. The focus here is modern Arabic cuisine, and the word “atta” means “gift” in that language. They’re noted for their made-to-order flatbreads, and around the Indian Ocean, the fine-ground whole wheat used for those flatbreads is also called atta. As such, if you speak the right languages, the name can be breadflour girl, gift girl, or the intended expression of commendation to someone female who has done something wonderful.
Alice Mai has cooked at modern restaurants The Bazaar by Jose Andres, Superba Food + Bread, and seafood specialist Fishing With Dynamite, none of which have a menu remotely similar to what is served here. Instead of ornately complex innovation, this is about re-evaluation of a cuisine with subtleties that are often underappreciated. There are vast variations in seasoning and ingredients in the Arab world that stretches from Morocco to Iraq, but the focus here is not on any one region. Instead, Mai presents ideas that represent the core of the culinary culture, with subtle modern embellishments.
The best example of this is probably the cauliflower falafel, a brilliant substitution for the rehydrated dried chickpeas that are the usual base for these fried balls of vegetable goodness. They’re crisp outside as falafel should be, but with the lightest interior texture imaginable. There are fresh herb aromas along with the cumin, coriander, garlic, and onion, and from the first bite of a falafel ball I wanted to just chow down on them. That would have been a mistake because the other items on the plate, mint labneh, marinated tomato, cucumber salad, and a half-hardboiled egg dusted with sumac and sesame, were nicely calibrated for alternating nibbles.
The bread on almost every table is their pita, which is fresh from the griddle and so light and soft that it’s almost like cake. I tried it first with a spicy feta dip that had a pleasant chili kick enhanced by pickled piquillo peppers that were hot, sweet, and tart. Attagirl also offers a combo of four spreads, housemade pickles, and both the pita bread and rosemary focaccia, which is recommended for larger parties.
We tried a novel twist on brussels sprouts: sauteing them in brown butter, tossing them with fennel vinaigrette, and serving over date puree. The fruity date sweetness and the fennel vinaigrette were an intriguing combination that I didn’t expect to go well with the grated parmesan that topped the dish, but it somehow worked. I might ask for the cheese on the side next time, but I would definitely order it. I had no such reservations about the spiced lamb meatballs over herbed semolina with a sauce that included Moroccan harissa hot sauce, tomato, and more of those piquillo peppers. This sauce reappeared with eggs at brunch, and was a winner in both.
The bar program at Attagirl uses some Arabic ingredients subtly, as in a version of gin and tonic that adds cucumber and amps up the coriander in the gin. (Coriander is in almost all gins anyway, but this makes it more pronounced.) Similarly, infusing tarragon to the mezcal in a Paloma deploys an herb used in Arabic and Persian cooking without hijacking the drink. Every cocktail we tried was well balanced, which should make this a destination for those who recognize the good stuff when they taste it.
The centerpiece of any traditional Arabic restaurant is the charcoal grill. We tried three items from the fire, the herbed pork belly, jumbo scallops, and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. The scallops were a daily special that should be on your plate if they’re offered. They were lightly smoky, cooked just through so the center was soft and almost gelatinous, and subtly seasoned. The kitchen let the flavor of the natural ingredients shine, which is true to Arabic traditions and in harmony with Californian palates. This was also true of the hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, which have a subtle earthiness and complex flavors that blossom on the grill. The clusters of fungi are nearly spherical and denser than most other mushrooms so don’t carbonize quickly, and this is the way to enjoy them.
I was less impressed by the pork belly, despite an interesting dusting of herbs including fennel, coriander, and pink peppercorns. The fat layer was thick and hadn’t caramelized, and we probably would have enjoyed them if the meat had a little more time on the grill. This was served with tabouli that was a bit heavy on the bell pepper, traditional Lebanese garlic sauce called toum, and a housemade hot sauce that was flavorful as well as peppery.
The surprise hit of the entrees was the New Zealand sea bream crusted with chickpea batter, served with shaved fennel and pickled watermelon radish over lemon curd and olive relish. The batter was very crisp when it arrived at the table but was enjoyable even after it had softened, the beany flavor going quite well with the mild but meaty bream. The olives and sweet lemon were two of the classic Mediterranean flavors in a slightly different format than usual, and contrasted nicely with the peppery radish and fennel. This is a masterful dish, and shows that Alice learned plenty in her years at Fishing with Dynamite.
Our server suggested a Tyler Pinot Noir and a Chateau Musar with this course, and both worked better than I expected. Chateau Musar has been making improbably good wines in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley since 1930, and their Bordeaux-style reds have high enough acidity to go well with fish. The Tyler was a fine match too, a fruity, juicy wine with moderate tannins. We would not have picked either, and recommend that if you enjoy learning about wines, you trust the staff here – they know their pairings.
For dessert we tried a richly eggy Basque cheesecake served over marmalade and bombolini, the Italian jam-filled doughnuts that are served with whipped ricotta cheese. Traditional Arabic desserts tend to be extremely sweet, but these alternatives finished the meal nicely.
We enjoyed the dinners so much that we came back for weekend brunch, and the experience of the room was quite different. The clubby space is cheerful when drenched with morning sunlight, and since brunch hasn’t caught on yet, it’s also quieter and inspires a slow paced meal. Some of the dinner items are offered, but we selected their version of an American breakfast, French toast brulee style, and shakshuka, a dish of eggs with vegetables in a spicy tomato sauce.
Shakshuka originated in Tunisia, and it is usually served in a small casserole dish, sometimes baked on a crust. The version here is in a dish accompanied by more of that fluffy pita bread, and if you like to start the day with a spicy kick, this is the way to do it. The tomato-harissa sauce with bell peppers is great with chunks of onion and tomato, topped with poached eggs, fresh parsley, and a drizzle of pesto. The portion was generous, and I surprised everyone at the table, including myself, by finishing it.
The bruleed French toast was a smaller portion but very rich, dense brown bread egg battered and caramelized with sugar, put over tart marmalade, and topped with whipped cream and cocoa nibs. The combination of marmalade and cocoa nibs caught me by surprise, and I’m going to have to experiment with it in desserts at home. As for the Attagirl breakfast, it’s like any eggs, potatoes, and bacon or sausage platter – except that the potatoes have subtle Lebanese spices, there is a marinated tomato and cucumber and tomato salad with dill on the side, and it’s served with more of that wonderful pita bread. The sausage is Beeler’s American style rather than Lebanese soujuk, though they may add that option in the future. In short, it’s something that someone with conservative tastes in their morning meal can enjoy while going just a little on the wild side. For dessert we had their rosemary focaccia drizzled with cinnamon roll sauce and broiled, a delightful take on a classic. They make an excellent spicy bloody Mary at breakfast too, so if you’re feeling like a morning tipple, this is an excellent choice.
For the caliber of cooking at Attagirl, the price is modest – dinners ran about $75 per person with modest wines or cocktails, brunch with a cocktail about $30 before tax and tip. The restaurant has only been open for a few months but has a loyal following at dinner – reserve in advance or you may end up waiting, but the wait will be worth it.
Dining on Hermosa Avenue has been getting steadily better with the openings of Ryla and Vinfolk, and Attagirl making this area even more exciting for those who appreciate original ideas. Bravo to Alice Mai, and to David LeFevre and the rest of the people who made it happen.
Attagirl is at 1238 Hermosa Avenue in Hermosa Beach. Open Mon. — Wed. 5 to 10 p.m.; Thur. — Fri. 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Sat. 10 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Sun. 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Small parking lot, street parking or structure nearby. Noise level moderate. Full bar. Corkage $30. Some vegetarian/vegan items. (424) 600-2882. AttagirlLA.com. ER
