Endless Session, Day 213: In a nutshell

Loading the boat, before things got a little interesting. Photo
Loading the boat, before things got a little interesting. Photo

 

Man, oh man.  Day 213 of consecutive days surfing in a row, in a simplified and organized nutshell:

-Boat to Palos Verdes (that was cool).

-Paddle from boat to waves.

-Catch a few head high plus peelers.

-Fall… swim what felt like a mile for board (no leash).

-Paddle back out, see scary monster 10+ foot set on the horizon, paddle for life to try and make it over (with Mike Purpus laughing hysterically at the expression on my face the entire time).

-Waves breaks on face.  Do cartwheels underwater.  Which way is up?

-Was told that board shot up 30 feet in the air (that’s also kind of cool).

-Swim AGAIN this time what felt like 2 miles (not so cool).

-Throw in towel.  Whew.

 

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