Endless Session, Day 307: Time
Trying to slow time on Day 307. Photo by www.bumpsetsurf.com
Time.
I wish I could harness it. Slow down the rush of flowing through a wave and make the seconds inch by, like a broken clock. The years of the ocean I lost little by little I’m making up for with every consecutive day spent seaside, but the days that turn to weeks that turn to months pass too quickly, and with summer almost upon us I’m under 60 days away from surfing for a year in a row.
And yet as my feet continue to flatten on fiberglass, I feel like a haze in my vision is slowly defogging. The lips curl behind me, the roar of the whitewater and the speedy sections are taking me less by surprise and I’ve been given a new looking glass, allowing me to see the broad spectrum of the ride and make wiser decisions of where to shift my weight or set my line. It might be this magical new board, my deepening relationship with the ocean, learning on land from constant videos of my favorite surfers – something’s just clicked.
The feeling is inexplicable. The high is ultimate. The water is cleansing. And the stoke — the stoke has an unmatched power, and joyous can’t hold a candle to the feeling of pure stoke. If my life were on a constant reel, I would ride a forever-wave, and get lost in the dance that is surfing.
