Endless Session, Day 317: Not The Sound You Want to Hear
Boris and Morgan gearing up for the morning. Photo by Renee Evette
Pop.
Is not a sound you want to hear in your body.
I knew there was wear on my shoulder, and it’s been giving me a bit of pain and a lot of grief the past few weeks. Sinking down into the soft Hermosa sand today, I balanced my board on my head with my left arm, saving some paddle power for the achy right. Boris Vishnevsky and I waded into the shorepound, caught a few small lines between lazing about next to the barnacle-laced pilings, and then it happened.
The wave broke before I could get over it and ripped by board from my arms. I tried to save it from blasting into the sand, and sacrificed myself in doing so. That sound sure carried, and gasping and kicking with my legs in the high tide, I let the waves tumble me in while my gang of onlookers ran down, realizing after a minute or so that I hadn’t just lost my hat.
Photo by Mike Leko
“Do you want to surf for the rest of your life?” the lifeguard rigidly counseled, along with other suggestive comments. I knew the answer, but didn’t know how to respond. If I told him I’d keep going the ridicule would continue. If I told him I was going to stop I’d be lying. So I said thank you as he put my arm into a sling, and had Jose Barahona call Dr. Scale, the wizard who put me back together last time this happened in February.
Ninety minutes of extremely painful tugging and bending in the afternoon deemed a dislocation that unfortunately didn’t want to go back into place. “If your hand gets cold, go straight to the hospital.” Fortunately it didn’t come to that, but my shoulder is slightly out of socket and I’m slightly out of sorts. More news tomorrow.
Ouch. Photo by Jose Barahona