Endless Session, Day 326: Whittled Down to One
by Morgan Sliff
This gloomy June morning with the help of the Jose B’s — Barahona and Bacallao — I decided that while sustaining a shoulder injury, my 3 wave rule could be whittled down to one.
I started the 3 wave rule early in my quest, and with the exception of Christmas day, with whitewater smashing the coast and broken boards sailing through the air, I’ve held good on that. Frank, the surf guru of Hermosa, said 3 waves make a session, and I haven’t had issues with that, my mind usually having to drag my body out of the water after hours of pruning up (which is why I’m faced with my current predicament of a shoulder sprain). In Frank’s absence — he’s traveling the coast of Portugal — Barahona gave me the one wave blessing. After all, I think one wave with one arm might count as 3. Maybe I’m rationalizing , but I think 1 will do for now.
Jose stood next to me as I hopped on the board, and pushed me into one that nearly crashed on my feet. I was up for moments, then lost my footing and fell backwards into the sea, cradling my messed up wing. “One more.” “Ok I’m ready.” Another shove and I was on my feet, this time planted and sailing towards shore, and I stepped off with a grin, thanking my surf comrades before heading back for another day of healing in my surf shack.