Endless Session, Day 328: Chill

Liquid joy. Photo by Tom Welch
Liquid joy. Photo by Tom Welch

Liquid joy. Photo by Tom Welch

Tom, my stepdad, carried my board down to the water for me.  He pushed me into a wave.  I surfed.

And I felt happy in that moment.  And then I crawled back into bed in my beach cave.  One of my dearest friends, the anonymous chalk bandit of Hermosa who I will call Funism, told me last night that “healing happens when you sleep.”  So I slept long hours last night, stayed in bed most of the day, got up around 6:30 p.m. to surf when Tom got in town from work, and crawled back into bed after a quick rinse.

I’m trying to re-invent “Netflix n Chill.”  Not so much just “chill,” more Netflix n try as hard as possible not to move an inch so whatever is wrong with your body can repair itself.  I’ve skipped over reading, because that involves balancing a book upright and turning the corner of pages.  Tv, which I never even turned on for the first month in my new studio, is becoming the ultimate way to make hours tick by.  So here’s to another romantic comedy, which is getting me that much closer to being able to sit, stand, and surf at 100%.

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