Easy Reader Staff

Endless Session, Day 334: YEW

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How I felt after this morning. Photo by www.bumpsetsurf.com from another day

How I felt after this morning. Photo by www.bumpsetsurf.com from another day

by Morgan Sliff

Today was ROAD TRIP DAY!!!

Well, a road trip mere blocks north, but it was a different place, a different wave, and a welcome change of scenery from the same place I’ve been surfing for weeks straight.

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Jose Bacallao, water warrior and community activist, swooped me from my surf den and we flew up to Longfellow on a shockingly sunny morning.   Shortly after we were joined by Seth and Laz, and as they all stood tall on their SUP’s I floated and waited patiently for the perfect wave to slide along.

The last weeks I’ve had to call upon friends and family for help, and the few days I tried by myself I looked like a flailing drowning victim.  But today I was determined to get an outside wave on my own, and feeling looser and stronger than I have since my injury, I spotted one of the bigger sets of the day come in.  I turned, one-arm paddled my heart out, got to my knees with the help of my left forearm, and pushed my palm down hard to raise to my feet, and let out a “YEW” of exalt as I sailed right down the line on my official first outside wave by myself.

The wave then crashed on my feet and sent me rolling into oblivion, but I didn’t care.  I carefully paddled back out so full of stoke you could see it dripping from my ears.  I’m convinced that the dolphins that passed by moments before put some magic in the water, because I was speechless as to how I did that alone (even if I did eat it at the end).

 

 

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