Endless Session Day 340: Blue Planet
By Morgan Sliff
Here we are again. South side of the Hermosa pier, light weekend crowd, good waves, and familiar faces.
Being confined to this spot for the last few weeks almost started brooding some contempt. A badly sprained shoulder and not being able to drive has ripped the pumping south swells hitting Malibu out of my grasp, and the long lines of Doheny are much too far out of reach. The Hermosa Pier — a short, fickle beachbreak with comically hard to make sections has been my place of refuge. And yet, the very spot that tore up my shoulder has given me insight on how to make do, and more importantly, how to make the best of a bad situation. After all, it’s not just surfing, but simply the ocean that I crave. That weightless feeling that you get floating in the salt, the ripples you make as you stroke onward, the closeness you feel to nature as wildlife swims by you and reminds you that the world is a mystical place. The blue planet – that sometimes looks more grey, green, or swirly white with gale force winds, has stolen my heart, and it doesn’t matter where I am; just being able to leave the concrete jungle for a few minutes and escape into a liquid heaven is bliss.