By Richard Foss
Note: Written in 2005
When Americans of the 1930’s dreamed of a palm-covered island in the sun, they were more likely to fantasize about Cuba than Hawaii or Tahiti. Those Pacific atolls were many days away by slow boat, while Cuba was just a short hop from the bustling Caribbean ports in Florida. Sun, sand, and a delicious local cuisine beckoned, and were the stuff of cherished vacation memories aided by photographs from thousands of Brownie box cameras.
These days more Cubans dream of moving here than vice versa, but Americans continue to enjoy that Caribbean cuisine at places like the famous Versailles chain and El Segundo newcomer the Havana Sandwich Company. Except for a few reproductions of travel posters from the 1920’s the Havana Sandwich Company is short on atmosphere. But the food is generally very good and the prices modest.
Havana Sandwich Company doesn’t try to create the whole range of Cuban food – the famous specialty of ropa vieja isn’t even attempted. Rather they focus on Cuban-style pressed sandwiches that are similar to panini, with the centerpiece being the traditional favorite of roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, mustard, and mayonnaise. Other Cuban and Caribbean inspired fillings are also offered, such as roast pork or chicken breast, jerk chicken, and fried steak. This being a Cuban sandwich place in California, there are plenty of completely non-traditional offerings like Italian hoagie, turkey cob, Reuben, and Mexican. Besides the sandwiches there are also plate dinners that include black beans, rice, and fried plantains, plus soup and a selection of salads.
I have visited several times and tried about half of the items on the menu, and while I like the novel sandwiches very much, that original Cuban sandwich is still one of the best items. There’s nothing spectacular or novel about the combination of flavors, it’s just filling, warming, and wholesome. If you are looking for something a bit more contemporary in style you might try the Mediterranean, which includes roast pork, feta cheese, onions, olives, and ranch dressing. The flavors are tangy and rich, reminiscent of a good Greek gyro sandwich in the combination of oniony meat and sharp cheese and olives. The jerk chicken, either original or crisp, is also a winner, though the mild sauce is on the tame side. Go for the spicy, which has a very peppery kick, and get something cool to go along with it. If you like soft drinks the apple-cinnamon drink known as Materva is good, or you might try the pineapple soda known as Jupina. The Puerto Rican beer known as Hatuey is a great accompaniment to this food if you like a fresh style closely approximating a Heineken. I cannot, however, recommend the Malta, a weird non-alcoholic grain beverage that is cloyingly sweet and has an odd beer like scent. This is one of the rare things that I violently disliked yet tried again, figuring that the first bottle was from a bad batch or had spoiled. It hadn’t, but I couldn’t believe that it was supposed to taste like that.
The name of the place aside, there are other options beside sandwiches. The chicken soup is packed with meat and vegetables and has a nice citrusy broth with a very fresh taste. A regular bowl is a fine lunch or dinner by itself, refreshing and healthy but still satisfying. Caribbean tacos filled with roasted pork and an extremely mild mango salsa weren’t quite up to that standard, requiring some pepping up and a little variety in the filling. I like the flavor of roast pork just fine and this was excellent, but some vegetables and a bit more spicing are in order for variety’s sake. There was only one real dud in multiple meals at Havana Sandwich Company, a basket of fries that had been limp and oily. This may have been an aberration, because everything else I had from the fryer was very good.
Two desserts are offered, a fruit and ice cream confection called the Havana Banana and pastries filled with guava and cheese. We were too full for the former, but tried the latter and thought highly of them.
Havana Sandwich Company is a good and unpretentious little eatery that turns out a substantial lunch or dinner at a very fair price. It may not make people decide to take their exotic vacation under the palms in El Segundo, but they do a fine job at a tropical accented meal.
Havana Sandwich Company is located at 2299 Main Street in El Segundo. Open daily for lunch and dinner. All sandwiches and entrees cost less than eight dollars. Beer and wine served, children’s menu available. Handicap access good, street and lot parking. Few vegetarian items, no vegan. Call 640-0014 for takeout.
