by Chef Robert Bell
The tomato is the second most consumed vegetable in America. The first is the potato.
Although according to science the tomato is a fruit, for 200 years it has been treated as a vegetable and legally remains a vegetable. The tomato is part of American culture. It is found on burgers, fries, pizza, pasta, salads, BLT’s, tacos and enchiladas.
Native to South America and first cultivated in Mexico, it arrived in Europe with Spanish sailors during the 16th century. For the next century or so it was considered poisonous by most of Europe. I believe the stems and leaves to actually be poisonous. American farmers found tomatoes ripened too quickly, making them very perishable, unlike the hearty grains and potatoes, which were easier to harvest, store and ship. Canning changed that perception quickly and tomatoes became one of the most planted vegetables in America. When tomato paste was invented shipping became less of an expense considering the amount of tomato flavor was in one little can.
Individuals started growing tomatoes in their home gardens. Today, tomatoes are the most often planted home garden vegetable.
Choosing the right tomato for your garden can take a lot of research. Grape, Cherry, Roma or Beefsteak are just a few of the many choices.
Do you have a short or long growing season? What insects or diseases might affect the plants in your area? Is the color important to you? Should you plant Heirlooms or Hybrids? Hybrids tend to be more insect and disease resistant than are Heirlooms.
Once your tomatoes start to ripen on the vine, it is time to consider what to do with all these tomatoes. Certainly, you will give some away, but hopefully your creative juices will flow and the culinary ideas will be plenty.
Late summer is reason enough to go to your local farmers market to purchase tomatoes. They are a much better choice than the supermarket. A few of my personal favorites are the Sweet Sun Golds, Black Cherry, Cherokee Purple and the Striped German. Yellow tomatoes tend to be less acidic and sweeter than their red counterparts. Remember, Romas [Plum] have less water and seeds compared to On the Vine or the typical mid-size red.
The tomato can be used in so many ways; it is the real gem of the late summer. My Grandmother always made a simple Tomato Salad of tomato wedges, finely minced garlic, good olive oil, fresh Oregano, salt and pepper. She would let it rest for a couple of hours before we were allowed to devour it. Serve this salad with crunchy bread so you can mop up any olive oil and garlic remaining.
Here are some thoughts on what to do with so many tomatoes ripening at the same time. The un-cooked pasta sauce of diced fresh tomato, fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), finished with good Italian Parmesan is a lovely summer mid-week meal. Tomato jam is great on grilled cheese. Tomato chutney pairs well with cheese platters and fried eggplant. Stuffed tomatoes with rice and ground meat then roasted are good. The thick slice of sun warmed sweet Tomato will be the star of your BLT sandwich. You will want to make more than one Caprese Salad this summer. My favorite Tomato Gazpacho is made easy by grating tomato halves through the large holes on your box grater, adding a brunoise of cucumber, bell pepper and onion, seasoned with Spanish Vinegar, EVOO, a hint of hot sauce and salt and pepper. To make a complete meal put a dollop of guacamole and shrimp. I enjoy making a cherry tomato sauce for pasta by sautéing the tomato halves in EVOO, adding minced garlic, a splash of white wine and freshly cut basil tossed with Penne or Farfalle pasta. The Poorman’s food of bread and tomato cooked together to make Pappa al Pomodoro, the famous bread and tomato soup is a nice lunch. The Spanish and the Italians make a starter of bread and tomato. In Barcelona it is called Pa amb Tomaquet, in Tuscany, Tomato Bruschetta. Have a glass of Sherry and imagine you are in Jerez. In the American South, summer is all about tomatoes. The most common of the summer tomato dishes is tomato pie. Basically it is fresh sliced tomatoes over well-seasoned Ricotta Cheese on a pie crust and baked. In North Carolina it would not be summer without it.
Michele and I were invited to a dinner party one day in late summer. It was the most creative of dinner parties. One you may enjoy hosting. The invitation asked each guest to bring three Heirloom Tomatoes. The Host collected them as the guests arrived, brought them into the kitchen where their chef was preparing a three course dinner featuring the tomatoes. Wines were paired very well with the three courses. Following the tomato dinner there was a wonderful cheese tasting.
A few more tomato-based dishes that may inspire you are: Greek Tomato Fritters, Domatokeftedes, Tomato Bread Pudding, Puttanesca Sauce, and Briam (slow roasted sliced and layered vegetables, topped with sliced tomatoes and olive oil and baked. And tomato soup, of course.
When storing tomatoes do not refrigerate they will become mealy. Keep at room temperature
Chef Robert Bell was raised in Brooklyn where Grandma Millie welcomed her grandson’s help in the kitchen. Over a 45-year career, Bell and partner Michael Franks opened many South Bay restaurants including Misto, Fino, Depot, Chez Melange, and Descanso. Today Bell enjoys teaching, catering and writing.
For questions about food and entertaining, email Robert Bell at chefrobertbell@gmail.com. ER
