The Village Feast: Steinhaus’ traditional Northern European cuisine has became a Torrance tradition [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
The Steinhaus Sausage Plate. Photo
I was twelve years old when Alpine Village opened, and I still remember the excitement in our family. My German-speaking grandfather insisted on going there the next week and was delighted with the architecture, shops, and the company of others who loved Northern European food and culture. At that time there was still a substantial community of Germanic and Hungarian immigrants in the area, and it was a taste of home for many.
The ethnic community has dwindled, but the Steinhaus Restaurant at Alpine Village continues serving traditional specialties to a more multicultural audience. German food is still a treat for my family, and we visited recently to find that most items were every bit as good as we remembered.
The huge dining hall was mostly empty when we arrived at 7 p.m. on a Friday, though party planners were setting gaily decorated tables to fill about half of the space. The other half remained empty for the two hours we were there except for one other table, which was a contrast from the early days what it was packed and cheery.
As we entered we admired the extensive chalkboard list of imported and premium beers, so we were surprised when our server asked us which of three beers we might like. When we asked whether the other beers on the chalkboard were available, she said they were, but she couldn’t remember all of them. She didn’t have a beer list to leave at the table so if we wanted to walk over and pick out the ones we liked, she would take the order. Luckily the bartender both knew the beers on tap and offered tastes, so at her suggestion, we sampled a few until we found one we liked. One person tried to order a German wine, but the only wines available were from California. Given that a market selling German wine was just across the parking lot, this was startling.
The menu at Steinhaus is more limited than it used to be and includes some non-German items like chili, which we ordered as an appetizer out of curiosity. To our surprise it was very good, spicy and smoky with a moderate heat, and there was good cornbread on the side. Since we had ordered this as a starter along with a cup of Hungarian goulash, another stew of meat and chili pepper, it gave us an interesting look at how two cultures used the same ingredients. The goulash was good too, a satisfying rich beef, onion, and paprika broth with shreds of carrots and other vegetables that went nicely with the fresh rye bread from the neighboring bakery. The only starter that didn’t pass muster was the “sausage trio,” which was overpriced for what was served. Instead of three sausages, we were served three skewers with little discs of sausage on them, a ridiculous portion for $9.
Though the problems with service continued – the wrong items delivered to the table, and to the wrong people – the main courses exceeded our expectations. The schnitzels were big, crisp-fried, and tasty with or without garlic sauce, the beef in the stroganoff tender and enfolded in rich mushroom gravy. The sides were generally authentic too, the sauerkraut tart and the red cabbage made with the right touch of cloves and vinegar that made it fruity and fragrant. The vegetables were made to German tastes, which means slightly overcooked by Californian standards, and the spätzle noodles had the slight rubbery give you get when they’re made fresh. Only the German fried potatoes were disappointing, because they were soft and a bit bland. At their best these have flavor from vinegar and either butter or bacon fat, and have at least some crisp sides. (And yes, in today’s health-conscious era some cooks do use olive oil rather than bacon fat, but I’m a traditionalist.)
The main course portions were mammoth but we ordered a slice of cake and a piece of strudel just because both were available; they had been out of strudel on two previous visits. Strudel is made different ways in different German regions and can have a crust that is crisp and flaky, thin and parchment-like, or soft and slightly chewy. This crust was the soft variety and stuffed with lots of spiced sweet apples, well made for the style. The cake had both white and chocolate layers was beautifully decorated and delicate. It didn’t have the cherry liqueur flavor that is often a part of Black Forest cakes, but it was good nonetheless.
Within the limited range of their current menu, Steinhaus does a decent job. I may be wistful for the days when the kitchen was more ambitious and the service more professional, but they’re serving the market they now have, not the one that was here thirty years ago. There are sausage kitchens opening around LA and perhaps some of the people who try them will venture here to find out what else is cooking in Germany. If that happens – and it’s a big if – then a new generation might bring energy back to a place that once had it to spare.
Steinhaus at Alpine Village is at 833 W. Torrance Blvd. in Torrance. Open 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. Tu-Thu and Su – close 10 p.m. Fr-Sa. Parking lot, wheelchair access good, few vegetarian items, beer and wine served, corkage $8. Partial menu at alpinevillagecenter.com, phone 310-327-4384.