The newspaper comic Blondie has a running gag that contributed a name to American cuisine. This is the Dagwood sandwich, in which every wildly unlikely item in the refrigerator is tossed between two slices of bread, and in the comic the eponymous maker devours them with great gusto. They are drawn as a pile of meats, cheeses, and vegetables at least 6 inches high, so that any human eating it would have to unhinge their jaw in the manner of a python preparing to swallow a sheep whole.
It might seem silly to suggest that any restaurant actually serve such an unwieldy pile of food, but some have taken on the challenge. This strategy is the claim to fame of the Standing Room, which started as a tiny lunch counter in a liquor store in Redondo in 2011. That establishment served eccentric Hawaiian fusion food, Korean style fried chicken, and overwhelmingly large burgers with as many as nine layers of ingredients. They were fantastically successful, but when they announced their intention to take over a failed nightclub in Hermosa, there were those who wondered whether such a tiny operation could successfully expand to a second location.
Fast-forward to now, and they seem to be doing well. The large, nicely decorated room is a step up from the cramped surroundings in Redondo, and the menu is much larger. They haven’t given up their penchant for experimentation – how many other restaurants around town would have a starter like fried chicken gizzards with Korean aioli, or flash fried shisito peppers with Chinese sausage in gochujang sauce? Gochujang is based on fermented soybeans and chili peppers, and the sweet and spicy sauce is making inroads in the American market.
It is not, however, something I would expect to see fried with peppers and chewy, garlicky lup cheong pork sausage, but if you like big, sharp flavors, it’s a weirdly compelling combination. As for the southern-fried gizzards, they were made traditionally except for the spicy dipping sauce, but were still a polarizing item – some people can’t get past the odd, chewy texture and enjoy the flavor. I can’t remember ever enjoying gizzards before, and I still prefer more traditional dark meats, but would have these again.
Hermosa’s Standing Room has a full bar, but it’s not a mixology sort of place. When I asked the bartender if there were any house specialties, he shrugged and replied, “Whatever you want me to make.” This was accommodating but not inspiring, so we had wine, of which they had plenty of good choices, though at prices slightly higher than average.
For dinner we selected a Napoleon Burger, short rib sandwich, and a plate of crab-crusted salmon. The Napoleon was the Dagwood sandwich of the menu – a thick beef patty topped with spring mix, grilled onion, scallions, bacon, a fried egg, cheddar, American, and smoked gouda cheeses, and a slab of short rib. In case this wasn’t overwhelming enough, it was served on a bed of truffle parmesan fries, with Korean aioli and tomato jam. I would say that it was far too much food for anybody except for one thing – I finished it. There were so many things going on that I kept eating. I don’t think all those ingredients are actually necessary; the American cheese adds nothing except for its unique texture, which isn’t a plus in my book. Nevertheless I can see why this sandwich has become a local legend.
The short rib sandwich was simple by comparison – good richly flavored meat in a bun with caramelized onions, a big but not intimidating portion. The real surprise was the salmon, which seemed like it might have come from a different restaurant. The moderately sized portion of fish with crabmeat was prettily drizzled with moderately spicy sauce, a model of delicacy and restraint. It was served with crisp fried potatoes, very good caramelized Brussels sprouts, and a salad, and probably had a quarter of the calorie content of my burger. This place may be famous for the burgers, fried chicken, and fatty but delicious pork belly, but they can turn out a light, delicate, and conventional meal when they want to.
Our meal for three ran about $70 for food, $134 with wine because we liked their selections and stayed a while afterward. The meal and evening were memorable, and conquering that Napoleon burger felt like an achievement at the time; I spent the rest of the evening doing very little but staring at the ceiling because I was so full. The Standing Room’s Hermosa location is successful on its own terms, a sandwich shop that has added sophistication without losing its soul. It will be interesting to see how this place evolves to fit the local tastes, and in what direction these talented chefs decide to take it.
The Standing Room is located at 1320 Hermosa Avenue in Hermosa Beach. Open Mo-Sa at noon, close 9:30 pm, Su at 2 pm, close 8 PM. Full bar, street or nearby pay lots, wheelchair access ok. Phone 310-374-7545.
