Man, oh man. Day 213 of consecutive days surfing in a row, in a simplified and organized nutshell:
-Boat to Palos Verdes (that was cool).
-Paddle from boat to waves.
-Catch a few head high plus peelers.
-Fall… swim what felt like a mile for board (no leash).
-Paddle back out, see scary monster 10+ foot set on the horizon, paddle for life to try and make it over (with Mike Purpus laughing hysterically at the expression on my face the entire time).
-Waves breaks on face. Do cartwheels underwater. Which way is up?
-Was told that board shot up 30 feet in the air (that’s also kind of cool).
-Swim AGAIN this time what felt like 2 miles (not so cool).
-Throw in towel. Whew.
