I was a pool shark as a teenager, beating most opponents at the table that dominated my parents’ rec room. There was a secret to my skill, namely the large dog that liked to sleep in the same spot on the table every night and had warped the surface with an irregular canine-shaped hollow. Billiard balls followed arcs predictable only to someone who had practiced a lot on that table, giving me a considerable edge. I had no such edge at Mr. Pockets, the pool hall and sports bar close to my home, because apparently they didn’t allow dogs to snooze on their tables.
The dog and the home pool table are both long gone, but Mr. Pockets is still there – minus the Mr. in this more inclusive age. Having rummaged through sofa cushions to afford the pool tables, I never experienced the food when I was first going there, but nowadays it’s actually quite good. The food at many pool halls and sports bars comes straight from a refrigerator or a can, but Pockets has a lot of things are homemade, and you can tell. The stuff you’d expect from a sports bar is here – burgers, pizza, fried stuff that goes well with beer – but there is more than that, and the execution counts.
The starters are a greatest hits medley – wings, potato skins, eggrolls, fries, rings – but our server assured us that they were all made in-house by chef Reuben Couvarrubias, so we tried a few. The calamari was standard, well cooked without being greasy, and the fried zucchini was a hit, freshly breaded with seasoned beer batter and as healthy as a deep-fried vegetable can be. I had dithered between the zucchini and the “award winning” chili, and I asked our server about the latter. She told me the chef actually has entered chili cook-offs with a variant of this recipe, and that made me curious enough to ask for a taste so I would know whether to order it next time. Having tried it, I’d say it wouldn’t be my winner for best in the South Bay because it’s a bit too mild, but it has definite homemade flavor. There is some dimension and depth here, and though it is made with ground beef rather than chunks of chuck, it’s meaty and satisfying. I like my chili hotter, but I’d have this again, any time.
We also tried a Chinese chicken salad that is a faithful execution of the classic recipe – iceberg lettuce, fried noodles, almonds, and carrots in a tangy ginger dressing. Chinese chicken salad is one of my favorite hot-weather starters, and this did not disappoint – everything tasted fresh and the big portion was a good-sized starter for three people.
For main courses we had to try the holy trinity of bar food – tacos, burgers, and pizza. The tacos were competently done but not particularly interesting, the burgers distinguished both by the availability of many toppings and the fact that fresh ground beef or turkey is available. These are half-pound burgers and are served piled high – my wife’s New Jersey turkey burger (avocado, swiss, onions, and mushrooms) was gigantic and tasty, and served with hand-cut fries. They’re much better than average, and at about nine bucks for everything, they’re a bargain.
The big surprise here was the pizza, which had a handmade crust and would have been an ornament to any pizza joint in town. I ordered the chicken pesto with mushrooms and sun dried tomatoes and was completely satisfied with the rich flavors – almost half of it went home with me only because we had over-ordered, and it was still tasty the next day. On another visit I tried a Thai chicken pasta and was similarly pleased – it was mild but flavorful and a deal at ten bucks.
Bars that serve food can do so cheap because they make a profit on the booze, and we did help Pockets’ bottom line by ordering a few craft brews. They have a good selection here and the servers are free with tasters so you can try something to see if you like it. In fact our servers on both visits were pleasant and helpful, and seemed to like having customers who cared about the food and asked questions. As with so many other aspects of this place, they exceeded our expectations.
I never did get over to the pool tables to try my rusty skills, but I’ll be back for the food and will have to remember to pick up a cue when I’m there next. I won’t have to raid cushions for change this time, and will have a good lunch or dinner before lining up that break shot.
Pockets is at 516 N. PCH in Manhattan Beach – open 3 p.m. to late Mon-Fri, 11 a.m. to late Sat-Sun – earlier weekend hours during football season. Parking lot, children welcome, full bar, wheelchair access OK to most areas. Website pocketssportsbar.com. (310) 372-4343.
