Into the Tropic of Cancer

How a wandering surfer’s search for waves resulted in one the world’s great musical festivals in a Baja Pueblo by Mark McDermottA few years ago, a van swung onto Manuel Márquez de León, a street that runs through the downtown “Centro” district of Todos Santos, a pueblo in Baja California Sur, Mexico. The vehicle parked in front of a makeshift taco stand named for its owner, Alma, who makes arguably the best shrimp and fish tacos in town (and whose son, Carlos, works around the cor