I occasionally hesitate when somebody asks if an establishment is a restaurant. Is a take-out joint that has some plastic patio furniture in the corner a restaurant? By the loosest definition, yes, but if there’s no welcome, no service, no other amenities, it’s just a place you buy food. You’d do better to take your meal to go, find a park, and dine in a more pleasant environment.
An eatery can provide those hospitable touches even in modest surroundings. An example is Pisces Sushi in north Manhattan Beach, an establishment with four cramped counter seats inside and one two-top on the sidewalk. You might expect that this would be a mere waiting area for take-out orders, but instead there is often a line to dine in. The reason is the hospitality of Sara Takahashi, who runs the place while her husband Yoshi mans the kitchen. Sara is one of those people who seem to be constantly in motion, welcoming you as you arrive while she checks an outgoing order, bringing water and menus, all the while taking a phone call – and she manages to make everyone she’s dealing with feel that they have her full attention.
The menu here is small and unchanging – a variety of sushi on one side, a smattering of grilled items, sides, and noodles on the other. The only beverages besides tea and coffee are the sodas and mineral waters in a refrigerator whose motor rumbles into life every few minutes on a warm day.
We were lucky enough to snag three places on a Friday night, and ordered seaweed salad, agedashi tofu, and four sushi rolls. I had brought a bottle of sake that had been languishing in my refrigerator, and we sipped that while listening to soft jazz and watching the occasional visitor picking up a take-out order or jealously eyeing our space at the bar.
The seaweed salad was atypical, with what appeared to be daikon or radish sprouts, sesame seeds, and cucumber mixed in with sea vegetables. Seaweed salads have been mainstreaming, and I’m always glad to see them on a menu – the tangy, moist crunchiness is delightful, and while I don’t know nutrition details it certainly tastes healthful.
Though I didn’t realize it at the time, there was a deliberate pattern in the arrival of our sushi. The items with the least adorned flavors arrived first – a yellowtail roll with avocado, cucumber, and scallions, and a rainbow roll – a California roll topped with a colorful array of fish and shrimp. The subtle flavors of fresh seafood and vegetable are the point here, rather than bold spicing, and the artfully constructed rolls hit the spot. When the next two rolls arrived, I realized the sense in the order of service – the eel roll with its drizzle of sweet sauce and spicy tuna crunch roll had much more assertive flavors, and were best enjoyed after the more delicate items. They were tasty too, but in quite a different way.
That well-calculated decision aside, I was at first surprised by the item that arrived last – agedashi tofu, bean curd coated with cornstarch and fried, topped with spring onion, sprouts, and bonito flakes, then served in soy and seaweed broth. After the first taste, I realized that it made sense for the only hot item to finish the meal. I have always found agedashi tofu odd but compelling – why would you fry something to perfection, only to serve it in broth? The payoff is that when eaten mere moments after it’s made, the top still crisp, the bottom not yet completely soaked, it’s delicious. It’s one of the most perishable items in any cuisine, and not something I’d ever order for take-out because it’s so perfect when completely fresh.
Our meal or three was $67.00, very modest for a sushi dinner for three even allowing for the fact that we couldn’t buy beer or sake. I decided to stop in a few days later for lunch, when I ordered a teriyaki chicken plate. This was listed on the menu as coming with a pair of fried gyozas, rice and edamame, but I was pleased to see that instead of the edamame they had provided a piece of Japanese-style fried chicken. I had dithered over whether to order this or the teriyaki, so the substitution was fine with me, though the soybeans would have been a more balanced meal. I would have liked a meal of the fried chicken better – the teriyaki was very sweet and the sauce hadn’t caramelized, while the fried bird was delectably crisp. It was a hearty lunch for ten bucks, and made me want to come back and try other hot items like their ramen and tempura.
Pisces Sushi isn’t a place to impress your date, unless he or she appreciates good tastes at modest prices rather than flashy surroundings. Come to think of it, maybe this is a good place to take a date, as you’ll find out whether they can see past the superficial and appreciate the subtleties of a graciously served and inexpensive meal. If they do, that’s relationship gold.
Pisces Sushi is at 3216 Highland in Manhattan Beach. Open We-Su 11:30 AM-9 PM. Street parking only, no alcohol served, no corkage. Menu at sushipisces.com, phone 310-545-3980.
