The whole idea of End of the Year lists is to give perspective on a category of news, to identify trends that might not have been obvious as they happened. Compiling my list of the best new restaurants in the South Bay gets more difficult every year, and to understand why I decided to take an even longer view. Looking at my records, I saw that in 2011 there were 16 non-chain openings in our coverage area, in 2012 there were 28, and in 2013 there were 34.
In 2014, there were 37 new non-chain restaurants in the beach cities and PV, more than double the openings only three years before. I might have missed one or two, but the trend is clear: we really do have more quality dining options in our area. The increasing variety of local restaurants is also unquestionable, and the newcomers are at every price point from quite moderate to spectacularly expensive.
The field in 2014 is also bigger because this paper started serving Torrance. There too the restaurant scene has become more varied and exciting, and once you leave the procession of franchises along Hawthorne Boulevard there are delights to be found. It’s an integral part of our dining community, and this year is treated accordingly.
For a restaurant to stand out in a rapidly expanding and diversifying landscape, it has to do more than just provide decent food and service. Ambition is called for, and some very good places to eat and drink didn’t make this list because they didn’t add anything to the area that wasn’t already here. It took a lot of consideration and hair-splitting to narrow this list down to a dozen places that I considered essential dining destinations.
As always there were judgment calls and places that opened too late to properly evaluate – Lou’s On The Hill is obviously a significant opening, an ambitious Italian restaurant and jazz nightspot, but they were still serving a limited menu as 2014 ended. The R10 Social House improved markedly after a shaky start, and they should be applauded for bringing energy to the sedate pier scene. The Bottle Inn Riviera almost made the list for energizing their neighborhood, and had it been a standalone instead of an extension of the Hermosa location they would have qualified. Jus’ Poke gets an honorable mention for succeeding with a magnificently odd concept – whether there are lots of homesick Hawaiians around town or there was a previously unmet demand for seafood salad, they filled a niche nobody else knew was there.
I look to 2015 with anticipation, as many interesting concepts have been announced, but it was a pleasure to look back at 2014 one last time and marvel at the richness of the local scene. Here are the standouts, in alphabetical order:
Akatora Sushi – When Michael Cardenas took over the Katsu space, it wasn’t clear what he would make of it – the Mexican chef had opened Spanish, Japanese, and contemporary restaurants. He decided North Manhattan needed a lively contemporary Japanese restaurant, despite the fact that one had been in that very spot. As it turned out he was right, and locals fell in love with with his take on contemporary Japanese cooking. Diners enjoy richly flavored food that combines Japanese and Western ideas with flair, and despite the competition among sushi restaurants in the area there is certainly room for this one. (302 Rosecrans Ave., MB. 310-802-1131)
Dia de Campo – A few years ago there was only one Mexican restaurant in the South Bay that served anything ambitious or explored regional cuisines – now there are several. The team behind Abigaile and Little Sister has pushed things in the right direction with Dia de Campo, a bustling, exciting place where multiple specials are offered depending on the market. Seafood is the centerpiece here, with multiple ceviches and fresh oysters, but there is much more to enjoy. The tortillas are housemade, sauces are excellent, and items like duck quesadilla and chicken and shrimp enchilada hit the spot. The cocktails deserve praise too – the people at the bar have the same flair as the ones in the kitchen. (1238 Hermosa Ave., HB. 310-379-1829)
Flyin Fin – The South Bay’s love affair with sushi has been going strong for decades, and with all the available choices it takes something special to stand out. Flyin Fin does so with outrageous presentation, edible sculptures that make it fun to watch things being delivered to neighboring tables. The thrill would pale if these weren’t as much fun to eat as they are to see, but fortunately the flavors are very well considered. There is a Thai influence in some items, but it is subtle – the fresh fish and vegetables are allowed full expression. As a bonus, the prices are moderate by local standards, so the palate and eyes are treated without the wallet suffering. (1727 S. Catalina Ave, RB. 310-373-3718)
Greenbelt – This restaurant was initially announced as a healthy sandwich shop, but as soon as they opened it was obvious that more ambitious plans were afoot. This is easily the most modern, creative kitchen on the Pier Plaza, offering a contemporary blend of ideas from around the world. They do offer sandwiches and pizzas, but those include a good pork banh mi on baguette and lamb or short rib pizzas. The menu isn’t huge, but it doesn’t need to be – there’s something here for anybody who appreciates interesting flavor contrasts. Everything about this place is a welcome surprise. (36 Pier Ave., HB 310-798-6585)
Grimaldi’s Pizza – Yes, it’s a chain, and I don’t usually give this recognition to chain restaurants. Grimaldi’s gets the nod because they brought real New York style coal-baked pizzas to the South Bay, and they make them exceptionally well. It took a lot of investment in a special oven, plus a filtration system to make California water match the mineral content of New York’s, but it has been done. They only serve pizzas, salads, and dessert here, but they create them with the zeal of specialists, and that has made this long-vacant space a hotspot. Now if they can just bring Broadway-quality theater, we’ll have true civilization. (2121 Rosecrans Avenue # 1399, MB. 310-648-7503.)
Habana Vieja – The strip mall in East Torrance doesn’t look like much, but it hides a gem – the best Cuban restaurant in a very wide radius. Habana Vieja goes beyond the standard Cuban dishes like garlic chicken and ropa vieja, serving hearty peasant food and also good paella and fresh fish. The restaurant is unpretentious and casual, the bill modest, and the flavors of the Caribbean are front and center. (1648 West Carson, Torrance. 310-320-0935.)
Hey 19 – 2014 is the year sleepy West Torrance woke up, thanks to a quirky modern gastropub that is also a family restaurant. Hey 19 transformed a grimy bar into a casual eatery that draws inspiration from American traditional recipes. If you feel like childhood favorites you can get a fine grilled cheese with tomato soup, or for a big meal dig into the double pork chop with chutney in a bourbon sauce. There’s a good steak, chicken with waffles, and other delights. Owner Demi Stevens and her partners were brave to try this concept in an unpromising location, but their bet has paid off. (4525 Calle Mayor, Torr. 310-378-8119)
Hook & Plow – This little restaurant has a little menu – only six regular entrees, plus one or two specials. Hook and Plow makes the most of recipes that showcase or intensify the flavor of farm-to-table fresh ingredients, like cranberry aioli and onion jam. The cooking here isn’t flashy, but flavors are combined with precision; try their chowder to see how well they use flavors of land and sea, or any dish with mushrooms to enjoy funky, earthy goodness in balance. This restaurant wouldn’t be out of place in the wine country, and it is certainly an asset here. (425 Pier Ave, HB. 310-937-5909)
Ju Ju Ya – Celebrated chef Mako Tanaka decided to open a restaurant near his home, bringing a modern and creative Japanese restaurant to Rolling Hills. The place isn’t easy to find, but it’s worth the effort. This is izakaya food, small plates for sharing, and the flavors are bold – sweet garlic sauce on the roasted Jidori chicken, tapenade with oysters, plum vinaigrette on the asparagus and tomato salad. Don’t decide what you want until you hear about the specials, because there are creative market items. It’s expensive, but you knew going in that you were at a Japanese restaurant on the hill. Go there, because it’s worth it. (550 Deep Valley Dr., RHE. 310-541-9500)
Love and Salt – The biggest change of the year was the departure from the local scene of Café Pierre and the arrival of Love & Salt. The new restaurant is loud, it’s cramped and uncomfortable if you are at the shared tables in the middle, but the food is spectacular. The flavors are built on a base of rustic Italian and French ideas, but the style is modern – simple things like crostini are artfully presented, and you’ll want to take a picture of every item before devouring it. Get a reservation so you have your own table, and try the wood-fired pizzas, flatiron steak, or if you’re feeling brave, the whole roasted pig’s head. Try everything, because it all works, but be aware that the prices are on the high side. You’ll get a wonderful meal, one you’ll be describing to friends for some time. (317 Manhattan Beach Blvd. MB. 310-545-5252)
Mandovi – The quality and variety of Indian food in the South Bay has been rising for years, and when Mandovi opened it took a gigantic leap. The focus here is on flavors of Goa, a tiny region that was long ruled by the Portuguese and developed a unique fusion cuisine. Go outside the usual chicken curries and tandoori items and explore the seafood dishes, lamb fritters, Manchurian-style cauliflower, or ask about the specials. The chef here seems to enjoy it when diners want the authentic flavors of his homeland and will create menus to suit your preferences. It’s a radical departure from the usual, and a reason to head for EL Segundo when South Asian flavors sound enticing. (150 S. Sepulveda, ES. 424-220-[7115)
Petros Kafe – Downtown El Segundo has thrived on its small town atmosphere, which became somewhat more cosmopolitan with the opening of Petros Kafe. The concept isn’t far from Petros’s other location in Manhattan Beach, though the prices are slightly lower and there are a few Greek-Californian fusion dishes. The salads seem to be a specialty – try the fig, strawberry, or watermelon salads in season, and save room for one of their house-baked desserts. There’s room in this town for places that celebrate the past and future, and Petros Kafe is almost alone in doing the latter. (131 W. Grand Ave., ES. 310-0322-6200)
