Think of salt and you see white – the dazzling glare of the Bonneville salt flats to those who have seen that landscape, for the rest of us the blank palette that inhabits an everyday salt shaker. Salt actually comes in many colors, some used for culinary purposes; I have had fish served on a hot cube of Tibetan pink salt, and my cupboard contains some greenish-black Pacific Northwest salt that has a distinctive smoky flavor. Other salts are purple, orange, and even blue – though blue salt is not eaten very often because the color comes from either copper sulfate or cyanide, neither of which enhances the dining experience.
I don’t know why the folks at Blue Salt Fish Grill settled on the name, though the main thing they serve does come from a place where it is indeed blue and salty. The name says it all – if you’re not in a mood for seafood, this is the wrong place to go; there is a lone chicken item, but other than that, it’s all seafood, all the time. Which is no bad thing, since a kitchen crew that specializes in seafood has plenty of practice in making it tasty, and based on several visits this one is up to the task.
The fact that only seafood is offered doesn’t make it easy to figure out what to have; given ten fish to choose from, some of which you may not be familiar with, you might find yourself standing at the counter for a while. Items like tilapia, red snapper, yellowtail, and salmon are there all the time, and they sometimes offer fresh Fijian opah and opakapaka. Once you’ve figured out your fish, you choose between one of a dozen spice rubs, butters, or sauces that you’d like it cooked with and any two of ten side items. It can be a bit overwhelming to decide, and the staff is used to people who come in and stare at the menu board for a while.
This cornucopia is at reasonable prices, with old favorites like fish and chips starting at nine bucks and the grilled stuff priced at ten to fourteen dollars for a full dinner. I have tried the fish and chips and it’s pretty good, a light, crisp batter on a large portion of seafood, but the grilled items are where this place shines.
First, of course, there are starters. They offer a starter of ceviche, but I have never ordered it because on every visit so far they’ve given a small portion for free. I’m sure it is building an audience for the stuff, since it’s a fine way to begin a meal – scoop it on tortilla chips like salsa and enjoy the citrus and seafood with just a hint of chili and black pepper. It’s not as assertive as the version served at Peruvian and Mexican places, but it brings out the clean, fresh flavors of the fish. I have also tried the grilled zucchini and the crabcake, and I would order either one again despite the fact that the crabcake isn’t my favorite style. I prefer East Coast style pan-fried crabcakes that are dense and meaty with a kick of Old Bay seasoning, while this is very light and crisp, with just a wisp of spice. Blue Salt’s version works the way it is served, as the topper for a good salad, and though I’m not shifting my allegiance from Maryland crabcakes I would recommend it.
The crabcake and the ceviche are both mild versions of something that is often spicy, and that tendency continues with the sauces that are offered with the fish. I tried the chipotle butter, Brazilian periperi spice rub, and Moroccan rub, and all added an additional dimension to the fish but none delivered the kick that might be expected. That kick wasn’t really needed, because it would have obscured the distinctive flavors of the fish. In fact, the milder seasonings often worked best, with a simple lemon pepper rub perfect with tilapia and café de paris butter accenting the opah. Café de Paris butter has hints of mustard and fresh thyme and was originally developed for steaks, and I had never tried it with fish. It worked well enough that I’m going to have to try it at home.
After several visits, I can say that they’re very consistent; every piece was grilled exactly to order but one – the ahi tuna was done well past the rare that was advertised, and based on comments from a friend who also frequents the place that’s a common problem. Apparently if you want it really rare you need to emphasize this – whether it’s a failing in the kitchen or (more likely) that people have sent their fish back because it wasn’t done enough despite the fact that they ordered it rare.
There is of course more to life than fish alone, and Blue Salt has all the usual sides like fries and cole slaw and some more upscale selections. The grilled corn with black pepper and roasted rosemary garlic potatoes are good starch choices, the grilled zucchini and the arugula and spinach salad with parmesan best among the greens, but the standout is the vegetable couscous. This has a fluffy, light texture and is the best of several vegetable items offered. In fact a vegetarian could dine quite nicely here, and the management might well consider offering a vegetarian special of any combination of side items.
Blue Salt recently got a wine and beer license, and their selections and prices here are surprising. Zafrica South African Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc are offered at under $4 a glass, and that white was remarkable for the price. I haven’t tried the Pinotage, but I intend to, and I’ll be looking for that Sauvignon in the stores. I was less thrilled with the Cave Creek Chardonnay, though I might have liked it better if I hadn’t tasted it after the crisp Sauvignon Blanc.
Desserts are offered, but they’re all on the heavy side – something like a light fruit tart would suit the style of this menu better than blackout cake or cheesecake. That quibble aside, there is a lot to like in this place that has fast food prices and restaurant style and sophistication. The name does still puzzle me – the walls aren’t blue, and things weren’t over-salted – but the food and experience are worth the trip.
Blue Salt Fish Grill is at 2525 Artesia in Redondo – open daily 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. Parking in small lot that is sometimes full, street parking nearby. Wine and beer served, vegetarian-friendly, wheelchair access OK, children welcome. (424) 247-7414. ER
