Up Close and Personal from an Anonymous Bay Source

Lunada Bay surfing


The Lunada Bay surfer who agreed to be quoted for this story requested anonymity. He wasn’t born into surfing the point, but knew a few of the boys, stayed tough, kept quiet, and earned a few waves here and there. If you see the crowds at more accessible PV spots with Malibu-esque crowds, you’ll understand his concerns.

Not all Bay Boys
“First off, there are surfers who surf the bay, but aren’t necessarily “Bay Boys,” he said. “It’s a lot of the newer guys who are working their way into the spot trying to earn their stripes who are doing the vibing.”

“One of the biggest criticisms is, ‘Hey man, why can they surf other spots while we can’t surf theirs.’ That’s not 100 percent the truth. A lot of PV surfers don’t surf any other spots besides the hill.”

Protecting the neighborhood
“Our spots are not easily accessible. With no parking lots, the only parking is right dab in the middle of our community. How would you like it if your street was lined up with complete strangers, changing in towels in front of your kids, hanging out while making your wife feel uncomfortable while she’s alone at home?”

Protecting the environment
“There aren’t trash cans every 50 feet like El Porto. Our community is not environmentally designed to handle a major crowd. Many of the trails are dangerous.Why do you think it’s kooky to walk down and up a trail in a wetsuit? Is it for  the ‘locs’ to know who the ‘kooks’ are? No, it’s so you do not get the trail muddy, which might cause someone to slip.”

Not a wave for amateurs
“There’s a reason there hasn’t been a drowning in big surf at the Bay. It takes years of experience to be prepared to handle a heavy breaking wave. With the nearest lifeguard tower a couple of miles away, there’s no lifeguard readily available. If you’re inexperienced you can jeopardize not only yourself but others. Even on the smaller days, there’s certain shallow sections with boulders sticking out on the inside.”


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