Some ideas are so good that as soon as they appear, they’re duplicated. When a San Bernardino hamburger stand developed what they called the “Speedee System” of assembly line fast food, the first sharp entrepreneur who saw it realized that it could be franchised. The fellows who started that business, the McDonald brothers, did pretty well on the deal, the man who bought it even better.
It’s not always easy to tell which ideas can travel. When I was fresh out of high school and going to the Sunset Strip for concerts I used to stop in at a somewhat disreputable bar to eat cheap chili and burgers and play pool. If someone had told me that dive bar would someday have multiple locations, one in Redondo, I’m sure I would have laughed at them.
There are six Barney’s Beaneries now, and one of them did indeed open in a high-profile location on the Redondo Pier next to El Torito. The original Barney’s is a garish joint with a “Route 66” theme, and the Redondo branch tries for the same atmosphere, with old license plates nailed to the walls, classic motorcycles towering over booths, and old car seats on big springs as barstools. Though I’m fine with the other expressions of the theme, I don’t like the bar seats, which wobble drunkenly even when the occupant is sober.
The food and service quality has been variable. On our first visit the server seemed bored and disengaged – asked what her favorite item on the menu was, she said, “Everything’s pretty good,” which was neither helpful or a ringing endorsement. We ordered a Mexi-burger and the chili sampler, figuring that since the place is called a beanery we might as well eat some. Barney’s serves five kinds of chili, their original, firehouse, vegetarian,
turkey, and Texas, and the sampler also includes chips, cheese, onion, sour cream, and cheese rolls. The original and firehouse were both bland and unimpressive, the turkey better but thin and watery. If you like mild tomato-y chili the vegetarian chili would be fine, but the best was the Texas. This beanless variety was the only one with any discernible heat, and while it wouldn’t register 4 on a scale of 10 on anybody’s spice meter, it was something I’d have again.
The burger had Ortega chile, avocado, and Mexican cheese, and was surprisingly mediocre for a place that is known for them. Though the patty seemed fresh and was cooked the medium-rare we requested, it was under-seasoned and the bun was a standard commercial version. The onion rings were freezer-to-fryer rather than being freshly made, but were OK.
Our return visit was much better, and we had a more cheerful and energetic server who was helpful with suggestions. I had been considering an al pastor burrito but he was enthusiastic about a breakfast sandwich of fried egg, cheddar cheese, sausage patty, hashed browns, and fresh spinach on an English muffin. I decided to get a taco so I could taste one of their Mexican items, and after I did I was glad I opted for the sandwich – the marinated pork had a nice chili heat, but it was extremely salty. When I mentioned the inedible taco to our server, he removed it from the bill, which was good customer service. The sandwich was very good and served with fresh-sliced strawberries and was a fine light meal.
My wife had selected a soup and sandwich combo, and at the server’s selection picked chowder and tuna salad. Both were surprisingly good, the chowder a medium rather than thick broth with mild pepperiness and nicely packed with clams and potato chunks. The tuna salad was the classic, light on the mayo and with a sprinkling of chopped celery for crunch, served on whole wheat bread. Barney’s has a full brunch menu and starts serving daily at 10 AM – based on these items, this is a good candidate to start the day with an ocean view.
Barney’s Beanery has cultivated a party hearty atmosphere heavy on nostalgia, with 70’s rock always playing and the look of a bar. Though the food and service was uneven, this may have something to do with the fact that they’ve only been open a few months, and there obviously are high points here. They’re better than the previous occupants, and if they can attain consistency this could be a new destination on the pier.
Barney’s Beanery is at 100 Fisherman’s Wharf , Suite H, upstairs at the Redondo Pier. Open Mo – Thu 10 AM – 1:30 AM, Fri 10 AM – 2 AM, Sat 9 AM – 2 AM, Su 9 AM – 1:30 AM. Full bar, pier lot nearby. Menu at barneysbeanery.com, phone (424) 275-4820
