Endless Session, Day 209: Surf Heaven

Heaven at Rincon. Photographer unknown
Heaven at Rincon on Day 209. Photographer unknown

 

The recent waves of Nicaragua left me in a state of wanting.

So far, far down the road I went, the South Bay not providing the level of wave that was playing on repeat in my mind, clouding my vision and pulling me away from responsibilities.

I arrived at Rincon, aka Morgan’s absolute surf heaven.  It was somewhat small — maybe waist to chest high on the sets, but the perfect right point-break and its long, steep walls had me quite literally jumping up and down in excitement.  I couldn’t have gotten closer to what I saw in my surf dreams.

Photographer Unknown
Photographer Unknown

I can’t possibly find words to describe the feeling in the water.  Glistening, glassy perfection, clear water all the way to the sandy wave-ridged bottom, surfing next to Dennis Aaberg (writer of classic surf movie Big Wednesday), then car trouble leading missing work (sorry boss) and a just-as-good session just down the road at C-Street…. just heaven.  Thank you Poseidon.

 

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