My handy duct tape cast and I raced down to the beach, finally feeling rested after a few tiring, hot days at Cardon Surf Resort in central Mexico. The rest of the Cardon gang was gearing up along with me – the resort accepts up to 16 guests maximum at a time, and besides a local here and there, the perfect left point is pretty much exclusive; untouched by other hotels or surf companies. Many people book the same week a year in advance, and the entire group here now has been coming down together for five straight years, some of them not having known each other before their first year down as separate entities.
There must be something about sharing waves together in such an isolated place. I can imagine the bonds formed while catching some of the best and longest lefts of your life certainly resonates, especially when you go back to reality. Ken and the group of firefighters from around the South Bay started making their way into the lineup, all of them keen on trading off on some long rides.
Today the weather was a little on the glum side, but that didn’t make the 75 degree water feel any bit cooler. The slowly building waves were showing signs of what was forecasted to come – big swell could practically be seen on the horizon. Catching a few on the outside and moving to the unoccupied inside, I took some alone time and started not only figuring out how to surf a left, but realizing that when I rode a board smaller than 9 feet I could actually snap hard on turns.
My duct tape armor came off, and a little blood seeping out of my toe called for a break in the session – a “cast” change and a board swap to something even smaller than the 8’0 fun shape I had was in the works. My 7’2 felt a little more wiggly on the paddle out, but transcended into harder turns and actually pumping down the line. Riding waves backside was starting to become easier with every made section and every takeoff I didn’t tumble down, and I think maybe if I ever go home, being a regular-foot stance, I’ll probably paddle into a left every once in a while.
