Endless Session, Day 304: Liquid Playground Part 2
Photo by www.bumpsetsurf.com on day 304
It was hard to go home from such a beautiful day at Doheny yesterday; my fire was lit and the only logical thing to subdue it was a bit more mucky harbor-adjacent saltwater.
This time Paul Roustan occupied the passenger seat as we buzzed South to Dana Point, just North of San Clemente. Today, the wind blew at a steady 10-12 knots, not exactly prime conditions for a smooth wave dance. Pulling into the exact space in the State Beaches lot as yesterday, I spotted Mikey Overstreet in his corresponding car accommodations as well, next to his big blue board, not pulling on his wetsuit quite as fast as he did the day before.
Overstreet, after some convincing in the parking lot, with an almost identical blue board. Photo by www.bumpsetsurf.com
“Come on it’ll be fun.”
“It looks like crap out there.”
“Boneyards might hold up.”
“I think you’re the only person more excited than me about surfing.”
Every time I’ve seen Mike surf, he epitomizes stoke with powerful, smooth turns, bouncing back and forth from one person to another, chatting and grinning ear to ear. And so on a less than meager day at Doho we ventured into the cemetery of rocks at Boneyards and joined a few others that had just enough zeal to slide down a few bumpy mountains. In the upwellings blanketed with small mini-waves to traverse over, we found a rocky point haven, and the rollers were connecting all the way to the inside as long as you were able to set your line after a steep takeoff.
Even on the bumpy days, this place scoops you into a wave cocoon, coasting you towards shore like California’s own Waikiki (with a bit colder water). It’s almost like cheating – you can stand there forever, move around, sit down and read a book, or have a few cups of coffee whilst the whitewater gyrates along behind you. After a few cuts in the feet, warm-blooded, no-wetsuit adorning Paul swapped his lens out for one of my old boards, and we re-joined locals Mike Frank, TJ, and Heather in the water and surveyed Frank, surfer by morning and dog rescuer by afternoon, switching stance, cross-stepping, flying on the nose, and turning around to face the wave in praise, all with pure flow and effortlessness. I’m not sure if there’s a more soulful surfer to grace Doheny’s sands and waters than Mike Frank.
When surfers get lazy… sitting down for a soft cruise on Day 304. Photo by www.BumpSetSurf.com
While TJ and Mike barbecued veggies and rode around on Mike’s handmade skateboards in the parking lot, the 3 of us – Paul, Overstreet and I – nestled into the patio at Boneyards cafe for some post-surf grub. Another morning had gone by, and it was already 1pm. I don’t know what it is about this place, but hours never fail to pass by like minutes.
