I wish I could have surfed forever today.
The last few days have been all-time. And a pain in the rotator cuff area of my shoulder is keeping me mortal, only allowing a few waves here and there at the moment.
My body has changed so much from surfing every day. Broader shoulders, an unmentioned amount of weight gained in muscle, and my arms are noticeably bulkier. I feel the strongest I’ve ever felt, and on some days the weakest. Paddling for hours a day has taken a toll on certain places — namely, shoulders, neck, and lats. I feel like the constant rotation is slowly grinding away at the gears, and the creaks and cracks I wake up with now are becoming more prevalent.
I sat in patience as the perfect chest high Hermosa peelers barreled through, trying not to exert any unnecessary energy. I saved the paddle power and late dropped into a few, watching visitor Mikey Overstreet and local Kris Hall from the beach after a few tweaks had me in some discomfort. The waves kept getting better and better, and the talented flock was making it look like a mini-Malibu.
I spent the rest of the day in bed. I’m terrified of injuries and being confined to land, and hoping the sea gods will send their healing powers my way.
