
“It’s coming out of the oven now and is going to the grill” are words that should never be uttered when speaking about breakfast burritos. ย The vibey joint that RJ, Garrett and I went to fuel up at before our heats certainly had a hipster sentiment, but putting burritos in an oven and taking upwards of 45 minutes to do so is just not okay.
We raced back to the car with our sub-par cabbage, feta and baked egg burritos (when you’re used to eating Brother’s Burritos in Hermosa Beach every other day, everything else is sub-par) just in time to suit up for my heat.
I hadn’t had the jitters like this in a while, and names had been ringing in my ears. ย Mele Saili. ย Makala Smith. ย Karina Rozunko. ย All liquid ballerinas. ย All forces of mermaid shred on a longboard. ย And all of them in my division.
Karina was MIA, but Mele was standing five feet away at the top of the rock-stairs, sporting a red jersey and looking focused for the heat before me. ย The buzzer sounded and as she started sailing down her own waves, I pulled on my own competition gear. ย Makala was in Red, I was pink, and the other 4 girls completed the salty rainbow. ย We sat in the lineup waiting for the ring, watching the previous heat flow back and forth in the knee high lines. ย I disappeared into myself with no game plan, and as the ring sounded, the splashes of paddles and cutbacks began.
The heat was difficult. ย Small waves don’t have a lot of force, and the inconsistent lines were barely coming through at knee high. ย I would drop into a small wave, not wanting to miss my wave count, only to paddle back out and see a different colored boarder sailing down a waist high set, lining up all the way to the cliff in front of the judges tent. ย 15 minutes passed as seconds, and although I got my count, I knew the results before they were posted. ย I didn’t advance.
Ultimately, it was a learning lesson. ย Have a plan, be patient. ย Wait for the sets. ย Then, let speed, power, and flow take over. ย Next time.



