Photo
The best restaurant environments have a consistent logic about them; food, music, and décor are all deliberately designed to create a mood. When done very well, the effect is almost subliminal; everything is so in harmony that it takes effort to imagine it some other way.
One of the great dining spaces in the South Bay is Green Temple, a vegetarian restaurant that is a find in more ways than one – the main entrance is around the corner from the location suggested by their address on Catalina. Once you find the place, it’s a triumph of decor, a small interior filled with South Asian art and musical instruments, and a large patio with a trickling fountain, large Buddhas, and many plants. The serene atmosphere with soft Indian music is an antidote to the outside world.
Oddly, although the menu is wide-ranging they serve almost everything but Indian vegetarian food. The majority of the items are classics like nut loaf, steamed vegetables over brown rice, and salads, though some Mexican and Italian dishes add global perspective. The definition of vegetarian here is a broad one, and many dishes can be made with eggs and real cheese or using vegan substitutes.
I went to Green Temple with some friends for weekend brunch, and we decided on the patio to enjoy the pleasant weather. The tables are screened so that what would otherwise be a wide open space feels like dining in a private garden, and we relaxed and chatted as we surveyed the menus. An amiable Australian server took drink orders and then disappeared for long enough to brew fresh coffee – the service here is friendly and helpful but can be leisurely, so if you are in a hurry you need to let them know. We received our drinks – hot mulled apple cider, bracingly strong French roast, and a concoction comprised of beet, parsley, celery, and carrot juice– and ordered food when he returned.
We decided to start with a veggie quesadilla made with white cheddar cheese, and it arrived after about ten minutes, the crisp fried whole wheat tortilla filled with pieces of lightly steamed cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and carrots. The slight cooking was a smart move that brought out the flavors and made it easier to eat. There was just enough cheddar to hold the vegetables in place and to lend a pleasant mouth feel, and unlike most quesadillas, it was more than just an excuse to eat melted cheese. It was served with mild guacamole and salsa that had a nice little aftershock of spice.
My wife and I had ordered meals that came with starters, and she picked a lima bean soup while I had a salad. I had expected her soup to be something like a spit pea soup with a big bean flavor, but it was a home-style vegetable soup which happened to include lima beans – good, lightly cumined, and a fine start. My salad was a slight disappointment; the mix of greens was fine, but the tahini dressing was missing the tang of spices that I like. I would have added some pepper, but there was none on our table and our server had disappeared again.
It was about forty minutes after we ordered that the main courses arrived, but they were worth the wait. Our companions had ordered vegetarian tacos and an avocado, mushroom, and cheese omelet, while my wife and I had a walnut loaf and something called the potato mountain, fried potatoes and sautéed mushrooms drizzled with enchilada sauce and topped with avocado slices, with a side of salsa. I wasn’t as big a fan of this dish because the potatoes were soft instead of fried to the crispness I prefer –the flavors were very good together, but the textures were all soft. The enchilada sauce had spice but very little heat – it tasted of cumin and mild peppers, and was very much in harmony with the other flavors.
I was more enamored of the tacos, which were liberally stuffed with soy-based protein, lettuce, cheese, and tomato. Meat substitutes have come a long way since I started eating them; they used to have a cardboard-like character, but this had a nice mouth feel and body. It was a good base for a taco, though I might have liked it a bit better if some more onion, cumin, or oregano had been fried in with it to give it a more traditional flavor. The tacos came with very good black beans and rice, and were a substantial meal.
The omelet was something that might have been served at any good breakfast place, simple ingredients in a fluffy egg envelope, although our friend ordered brown rice on the side rather than potatoes. Everyone was much more interested in the raisin-nut scone that he chose to accompany it, a delicious thing that rivaled the best equivalents from any local bakery. It was crisp outside and had just a bit of moisture within instead of the powdery texture that is often encountered, and it was even better with the house-made strawberry jam.
My own meal, the walnut loaf, is something that is often done badly – I distinctly remember having some of these that were heavy and undistinguished. This loaf redeemed the concept; the combination of brown rice with mushrooms, walnuts, cheese, and eggs topped with mushroom gravy was moist, light, and delicious, and I wish I had the recipe so I could make it at home. Actually, I don’t – as I remember these are a lot of work and can only be made in large portions, so I’ll just come back to Green Temple when I want more.
Our tasty, healthy, and generously portioned meal ran twenty dollars per person, and though we were almost late to an appointment when we left, we did so with an air of well-being. Who hurries from an exotic oasis in the middle of suburbia? Next time I’ll know to schedule more time so I can have a walk on the beach afterward.
Green Temple is at1700 South Catalina – entrance on the south side. Open daily except Sunday 11 AM-4 PM and 5 PM-9 PM – Sunday 9 AM – 4 PM and 5 PM – 9 PM. Street parking and a few spaces on south side. No alcohol served, wheelchair access OK, children welcome. Very vegan friendly. Menu at greentemple.net, phone 310-944-4525.
