As I surveyed the options while standing at the counter at Flossie’s in Torrance, I was struck by the irony that people think of fried chicken and the trimmings as fast food. Many locals think first of a multinational company that makes a pitiful imitation of fried chicken and sells it in buckets, not to name names here. Some Hawaiian and Korean variations on fried chicken have also become popular, but though they have their good points, they don’t compare with the Southern classic that Flossie’s has been serving up for 24 years.
Consider classic Southern sides like candied yams, collard greens, mashed potatoes, mac and cheese. They’re all slow cooked items, and when fried chicken is made the way it’s supposed to be, it’s not something you can rush. You could knock together a dozen different Asian dishes in a wok in the time it takes to make one good batch of fried chicken from start to finish.
Unfortunately there are very few places in the South Bay area where anybody takes the time to make classic Southern and soul food dishes right, and Flossie’s is by far the best.
The little cafe in a mini-mall on Redondo Beach Boulevard has dark windows and always looks closed, but inside the place is bright and full of curios and pictures. It’s comfortable and stylish, and makes dining in a pleasure. The menu is slightly complicated because some dishes are only offered on weekends or certain days of the week, but a stroll up and down the line of servimg trays will give you a good idea of what you want. Ordering is simple – all main courses are the same price, and they come with your choice of three sides from the selection of ten that are available. (Note that not all the sides are listed on their menu on the wall, so take a look at everything before you order.)
On the night we were there, the set price of $14 would get you entrees of fried catfish, fried chicken, baked chicken, smothered chicken, or meatloaf. On the night we were there, sides included collard greens, a corn, tomato, and okra mix, cornbread dressing, cabbage, zucchini, broccoli, macaroni and cheese, candied yams, rice with gravy, black-eyed peas, and mustard greens. Our party of three decided to try as many items as possible, so got the catfish, fried chicken, and meatloaf. Two of my party love mac and cheese and both wanted it, so we tried only eight sides – zucchini, cabbage, corn mix, cornbread dressing, broccoli, collards, and yams. The meals come with homemade cornbread muffins or biscuits, in case that doesn’t sound like enough food. The only beverages served are lemonade and either sweet or sugared tea, and since we can get tea anytime but homemade lemonade only occasionally, we chose that.
It took a good twenty minutes for our dinners to arrive, during which time a parade of people who had called in take out orders came in to pick up their meals. Based on this and other trips, it appears that more than half of the business here is to go. When our meals arrived they were in styrofoam containers even though we were dining in, with plastic forks, but the aromas of the food made up for any lack of style in the place settings.
We zeroed in on the chicken and fish first, since those are best when fresh from the fryer, but these were so hot that we had to wait. We therefore started tasting our sides, in my case the corn, okra, and tomato mix, cornbread stuffing, and cabbage. Cabbage has a reputation for strong smell and flavor that is unwarranted – this was simply cooked and tasted light and fresh. It happened to be a good counterpoint to the musky, rich cornbread stuffing, a favorite item from the Thanksgiving table that is served here on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Sundays. As much as I like their other sides I’d schedule a visit then, because this is a standout. The corn, tomato, and okra mix also blended flavors well, and might convert someone who has never liked okra before.
I dipped into my companions’ side items, of which I preferred the zucchini and collards. The yams were a bit too sweet for me, but then again I always prefer them simply baked or fried in olive oil. The person at our table who had lived in the South thought they were excellent, and sweet without cloying. I’m willing to take her word for it. The broccoli mix was simply steamed and unexceptional, and the mac and cheese was the only disappointment. The sauce was very creamy and the pasta a bit too soft, and as I like a lot of cheese flavor and firmer texture I left those to my companions.
The sides sampled, it was time to test the chicken and fish again, and both had cooled down just enough to not actually burn my mouth. Based on the crunch of the batter on the chicken, Flossie seems to use a mix of cornmeal and regular flour, with a nice little shot of pepper and herbs that adds interest to every bite. The South Bay has few options for real fried chicken and as far as I know I have tried them all – this is the best, by far. The fish was very good too, the four crisp filets served with a house-made tartar sauce that had a nice bit of heat, and slightly garlicky hush puppies that were crisp and free of oil.
My meatloaf was served in the Southern style with a slightly sweet-and-sour sauce that contained onion and a small amount of sweet bell pepper. That sauce made the dish, and though I like the chicken better, I’d happily have this again.
Desserts were offered – peach cobbler, sweet potato pie, banana pudding, bread pudding, and chocolate yellow cake – but none of us had finished the enormous dinners and we didn’t have room. I remember splitting a meal at Flossie’s with someone else and sharing some good bread pudding, but I can’t imagine having dessert after polishing of one of their combos myself. This is fine, hearty food, the real flavors of the American South where African, native, and European ideas came together in a unique way. It’s slow, careful cooking that should be savored, and once you try it, you’ll never settle for the junk food version again.
Flossie’s is at 3566 Redondo Beach Boulevard in Torrance, at the corner of Yukon. Open 11 am-8 pm Mo-Fr, noon -8 pm Sa, noon-7 p,m Su, lighted parking lot. No alcohol served, some vegetarian dishes, wheelchair access OK. Phone 310-352-4037.
