Nostalgia is a powerful thing, but not a new one – Romans of the Imperial era lamented that people in their day did not lead as joyous and virtuous lives as their ancestors. The British at the peak of their empire looked back fondly on the days of Queen Elizabeth, the French in the 1950s on the end of the previous century, when their art, literature, and cuisine were a model for the world.
The French did have some achievements in these decades to be proud of – art nouveau and impressionism, an efflorescence of music and theater, and the Eiffel tower among them. And cuisine, of course – the Western world thought of France when they thought of fine dining. Those who looked back on this period called it the Belle Epoque, the beautiful era, and for those with the finances and leisure to partake of culture, it certainly was.
Riviera Village has a restaurant called Belle Epoque that is decorated in whimsical art nouveau style with tropical flourishes, but the cuisine is not one popular in the Paris boulevards frequented by Monet and Proust. They’re serving Cuban fusion, along with odds and ends from just about everywhere.
Belle Epoque is on Avenida del Norte, just around the corner from the Trader Joe’s, and despite their bright neon it’s easy to miss. (I thought it might be a boutique of some sort when I saw it from a distance.) The place is the brainchild of a trio of Redondo locals who decided the area needed a haven for cocktails, performances, and modestly priced dining, and I find that a hard thing to argue with. Over the course of three visits, I’ve sampled my way through the menu, and find most items to be sound but a few too clever for their own good.
An example of the latter is their vegan ceviche, a conceptually brilliant item undone by an overly artful presentation. The mix of hearts of palm, artichoke, red onion, and cauliflower in a tomatillo salsa with lime, cilantro, and jalapeno captured the essence of ceviche in flavor, and is a terrific idea. Unfortunately, it’s served in a tall, elegant glass with a very narrow base, so it is very top-heavy. On the first dip of a plantain chip near the edge of the bowl, the whole thing tipped sideways and spilled on the tablecloth. I was deploying napkins and apologizing for my clumsiness when the same thing happened at a nearby table. The serving bowls are as impractical as they are beautiful. At the very least diners should be warned. I liked this item enough to order it again, but will ask for a more conventional bowl when I do. I will also ask whether they have anything other than the plantain chips as an accompaniment, because those are narrow and fragile, so it’s difficult to capture the ceviche and convey it to your mouth. Thicker plantain chips would be an improvement, or perhaps baguette slices or tortilla chips. Neither would fit the Cuban theme well, but sometimes compromises are needed.
Another item that works as a starter for several people, or an entrée is the “lavish lavash,” baked flatbread topped with either mozzarella, tomato, and pesto with a dash of balsamic vinegar or with pesto, fig jam, goat cheese, and vinegar. We tried the tomato version, and despite the description sounding like a pizza, the effect was quite different. The tomato and cheese atop the crackerlike lavash were warm but not cooked, so retained their natural texture. This too was a challenge to eat because the other ingredients were perched atop the cracker, but it was manageable. Once again there was an impractical element to the presentation, since it was served on a cutting board rather than a conventional plate. There wasn’t enough moisture that any of the balsamic or pesto actually ran onto the table, but the crumbs from the cracker scattered over a wide area.
The board was back for the Cuban sandwich, of which they make an eccentric but credible version. The bread is a baguette rather than the traditional softer Cuban bread, there is carnitas-style turkey rather than slices of roast, but the updates work. The sandwich was about a third of a standard baguette but well-stuffed and a decent sized meal. It was served with a mixed green salad that included chunks of pickled jalapeno, and I think I would have preferred those to be left out.
The fish and chips “Cuban style” was served with plantain chips rather than fries, and I really would have preferred conventional fries. The fish was a modestly sized portion in a medium-thick batter rather than a thin tempura style coating, and it was served with housemade tartar sauce and mild hot sauce (the menu listed chimichurri sauce, but this was substituted). Without the carbs from the fries, this was a healthy though small portion, a light meal that left room for dessert.
The flat iron steak was my favorite entrée, thanks to the delicious black bean demi-glace served with the tender slices of American wagyu. The steak was crowned with micro-greens, and the plate also included rice and thick slices of roasted plantain. The pretty presentation was Cuban food in formal wear, and as stylish as it was delicious.
Wine and beer are served, but the cocktail menu here deserves notice. The person running the bar knows his drink history and makes some obscure classics, including a fine Blood and Sand or Corpse Reviver #1. My favorite is the Cici’s Sour, but if you want a taste of French culture, get their Belle Epoque of absinthe, Cointreau, gin, lemon, and orange.
I’ve tried one dessert, their caramel bread pudding topped with ice cream. It has a soft rather than crisp crust and is a little sweeter than the New Orleans classic, but is a nice way to finish the meal.
A meal at Belle Epoque is affordable, with most items between $15 and $22. The steak is the most expensive at $33 – and for Riviera Village, that’s a bargain. The service is professional yet friendly, the environment a delight with some unpredictable surprises – on one visit a performer was setting up what appeared to be a magic and variety show, and we wished we could stay. Belle Epoque is a bright spot on a side street, and well worth a visit.
Belle Epoque is at 265 Avenida del Norte in Redondo. Open 10 a.m. daily except Mon. Close 11:30 Wed. 10:30 Thur. Midnight Thu-Sat. 10 p.m. Sun. Street parking or adjacent metered lot. Wheelchair access good. some vegan items. Full bar. Sound level moderate. (310) 316-4302. besupperclub.com. ER
