Paul Martin’s American Bistro [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
The first person who told me about Paul Martin’s American Bistro started by saying something puzzling. “It’s like Fleming’s, but without the steaks,” she explained. Fleming’s without steaks? Might as well say it’s like Baskin-Robbins without ice cream, or The Spot without vegetables. What could this be? I had to find out. Once there, I understood completely. The layout was similar, a sleek kind of comfy with high ceilings and a welcoming bar area. Paul Martin’s has a more whimsical streak – the glass dome inset in the east wall looks like part of Captain Nemo’s submarine, and the logo of the ring from a damp glass makes it look like all the napkins were previously used as coasters. The difference between the two establishments is obvious once you look at the menu – where Fleming’s spotlights perfectly seared hunks of meat with classic sides, Paul Martin’s focuses on modern versions of American favorites made with gourmet and organic produce. If it seems like I’m comparing unrelated establishments, I’m not. The guy who owns both restaurants is Paul Martin Fleming, who is also the P.F. behind P.F. Chang’s. The El Segundo Paul Martin’s is his second outpost of a concept that started…
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