Chef Melba has offered quiet excellence in Hermosa Beach for 15 years
Chef Melba Rodriquez at work. Photo byJP Cordero Dining in downtown Hermosa has a certain style — loud, hip, and flashy, both high and low concept presented with larger than life exuberance. It’s great when you need a shot of energy, a reminder of the vividness of beach life, but there are times when the opposite is in order. Get away from the bustling pier plaza and you’ll find oases where the vibe is relaxed and chill, the pace unhurried. They are places to unwind, and I would bet that if you take pictures of diners over the course of an hour you could see their shoulders drop from somewhere close to their ears, the worry lines in their faces smooth out. Chef Melba’s Bistro has a successful strategy of being out of step with all things hectic and buzzy, which has served them well for 15 years. When I reviewed the place in 2005 I remarked on the incongruity of a food-centric place in a nightlife town, and the contrast has only become more marked. While the menu has evolved over time some things are consistent, namely a focus on seasonal vegetables, a deft hand with all manner of seafood, and a very personal style of service. Curious about an ingredient or need to deal with a food…
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