Chelsea [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

A comic poet and philosopher named Tom Digby invented a word called “plergb” which is automatically redefined each time you use it. When the English language has thoughtlessly failed to provide the perfect adjective, you just use plergb and redefine it to suit your needs. This way you always have the right word for every occasion, even if nobody but you knows what it means right at the moment. It will still be available the next time you need it – eternally changing yet always accurate.

This bit of linguistic silliness is relevant to the culinary world because another term seems to be redefined every time it is used.  Gastropubs are hip these days, and though everyone agrees in general that the term means “food at least vaguely reminiscent of a British pub, but sorta modern,” a look at gastropub menus around town shows that they have almost nothing in common. Fish and chips and refined versions of burgers aside, there are no common items. Some are small plate menus, others are multicultural or experimental.

Since I happen to like all three approaches when well executed, I viewed the opening of Chelsea in Hermosa Beach with interest. The name and the fact that the space is

shared with the more conventional Underground Pub led me to expect modern British cooking. I readied myself for banger sausages made in-house, an array of imported British cheeses, and real Branston pickle on the ploughman’s lunch. None of which was actually on the menu – despite the name, location, and the row of vintage British photographs on the wall. Chelsea’s menu was an eclectic assortment of Americana and contemporary snacks. You could get a hot pretzel, spinach and bacon salad with mandarin oranges, or a Philly cheese steak, all of which I did in the course of two visits.

The two starters we tried were the tuna tartare and the pub pretzel served with three dipping sauces. The tartare was well thought out – sashimi tuna chopped and blended with cucumber, avocado, olive oil, lemon juice, and spices, along with assorted crackers and some nice Asian slaw. It’s a nice portion for two, would be a few bites each for four, and I’d recommend it either way.

I couldn’t recommend the pretzel, though. It was unaccountably oily and had a spongy texture. We found it hard to figure out just how this effect could have been achieved, based on the idea that you wanted it that way – butter it and steam it, perhaps? The three sauces (cheese, honey mustard, and whole-grain mustard) were a nice touch, but this was the one item we had in two visits that I’d never consider ordering again.

The spinach salad was much better, artful even – small leaves tossed with nicely calibrated amounts of red onion, bacon, orange slices, chervil, and goat cheese in a delicate but fragrant raspberry vinaigrette. It wasn’t what I would have called pub food, though we were surprised to find how well it went with a Maudite dark ale from Quebec. Speaking of which, the beer menu here is not huge but is very well-chosen – more Belgian ales than British, but that’s a commendation rather than a complaint, since a good selection of abbey beers is an ornament to any establishment.

We enjoyed those beers while watching the sunset from the big front windows that give this formerly gloomy space a pleasant airy feel. Like many places in downtown Hermosa, Chelsea has a split personality, an intimate restaurant and friendly bar early, transforming into a lively lounge and dance club as the evenings go on. The big booths by the windows are comfortable and offered an engaging street view while we waited for our entrees to arrive.

The main course list is short and apparently unvarying – a steak, a burger, spare ribs, fish and chips, and a Philly cheese steak. We tried three of these, because on both visits my companions wanted to try the Chelsea Burger. This is a good, big burger made with freshly ground meat and topped with Irish bacon and blue cheese (the menu says Dubliner cheese, but they changed it and haven’t reprinted the description yet). I’m not ready to crown it the best burger in Hermosa, but I’m not ready to rule it out either – it was tasty, and came with exceptional, crisp steak fries.

The New York steak also showed that somebody back there knows their way around a grill – the thick piece of meat was right at the medium-rare we requested, and it had a nicely smoky tasting charred crust. It came with mixed steamed vegetables and a baked potato, as befits an American classic. There was nothing particularly British or modern about the entree, but it was good and that’s what matters.

I had ordered the Philly cheese steak precisely because I don’t usually like them – something I do sometimes just to see if my tastes have changed or perhaps I’ve just never had a good one before. When I mentioned to my server (one of the owners of the place – it was a slow night and he was the only one working the floor) that I didn’t like cheese steaks, he urged me to try their chicken version. I did and was impressed – the mix of sweet peppers, sauteed onions, and chicken was tasty, and though I usually prefer crusty rolls to soft this one somehow worked. Again, it didn’t fit the gastropub concept in any way I expected, but it was good and I’d have it again.

One dessert was offered – a lava cake – but we declined since the meals (and the Belgian ales that accompanied them) had been quite filling. The cooking had been solid on both visits, the atmosphere relaxing and enjoyable, and though it wasn’t what I had expected from the description as a gastropub, it was a worthwhile experience.

Chelsea is located at 1332 Hermosa Avenue in Hermosa – entry via stairs from front or  via Underground’s door in back. Open dinner only, daily except Monday. Full bar, street parking or pay parking in adjacent lot. (310) 937-2598. B

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