There is an often-quoted story about a place in England called Torpenhow Hill; the name is allegedly the word “hill” in four different languages, Brythonic, Welsh, Saxon, and English. Linguists are still arguing fine points with topographers, but there are certainly places whose name means Island Island or Street Street using two languages.
To these landmarks one might add Pho Consomme restaurant in Torrance, which astute Vietnamese and French speakers will know means “Meat Soup Meat Soup”. (More properly, “Clear Meat Broth Made From Reducing Bone Stock,” but I didn’t feel like typing that twice.) Given the name you won’t be surprised that they specialize in pho, the French-inspired soup that is Vietnam’s national dish, but some of their other items actually steal the show.
The menu here is over a hundred items long, and only thirty of those are made with consommé-style broth made with either beef or pork.
One of my favorite items is the appetizer called banh xeo, a crisp oil-fried crepe filled with shrimp, pork, vegetables, and bean sprouts. These are tricky to make – when skillfully cooked the pancake is crisp and greaseless, the meat and vegetables cooked through but the sprouts still crisp. The chefs here have mastered these, and they’re a delicious and healthy starter for at least two people or meal for one. The standard fried or fresh eggrolls and spring rolls are available too, as are tangy grilled meatballs and a nice fried bean curd with shrimp paste, but this item is a standout.
Their salads are also a fine way to start a meal, and like the fried crepe they mix European and Southeast Asian ingredients and techniques. This is a unique cultural relic of the long French Colonial period – no other Oriental culture integrated so many techniques into their national cuisine. As a result a vinaigrette dressing can be enlivened with a dash of pungent fish sauce, chicken salad with roasted peanuts, ginger, and unfamiliar herbs. A specialty is the salad topped with beef that has been stir-fried with garlic, lime, and chili sauce; there are multiple sensations of peppery heat and cool greens, raw red onion sharpness and simple vegetable flavors. Be aware that like all the starters it’s big, and if you order it for fewer than three or four people you’ll be taking some home.
When dining at a restaurant named after a specific item I tend to order it, and the pho soup here is above average. There are regional differences around Vietnam when it comes to the strength of flavor, the specific spices, and the texture of the stock, so if you’ve tried this elsewhere you should come with an open mind. The version here is less oily than some and has a slightly muted flavor of star anise, and is slightly sweeter than usual. As is always the case numerous combinations of meat are available – my advice is to get the #1 special combo, which contains a little of everything. I ask them to leave out the tripe because I don’t like the texture, but that still leaves me with four different kinds of beef to savor. The portion size on even a small bowl here is impressive, and a large bowl that is only a dollar more is usually enough for two.
In over a dozen trips to Pho Consomme I’ve tried many dishes and rarely had a dud – among the standouts were shaking beef and fried fish in basil sauce. Shaking beef got its name because it involves coating beef with spices and then shaking it in an extremely hot wok, which gives it a slight crust. As for the fish, it’s simplicity itself, a big filet coated with what appears to be cornstarch and rice flour. Ask for the sauce on the side, so the crisp batter doesn’t soften, and dip to your heart’s content.
Pho Consomme has two locations, one a standard-looking place on Redondo Beach Boulevard in Gardena, the other on Vermont in Torrance sporting decidedly odd décor. Whichever you choose, you can have a very good meal at a very modest price.
Pho Consomme is at 21732 South Vermont in Torrance. Open daily 10 a.m. – 10 p.m., parking lot, wheelchair access OK. Many vegetarian/vegan options, beer served. Phone 310-381-3677.
