Safari in Saxony
The Fichtelbergbahn Mountain Railroad steam train passes through some peaceful and “one-of-a-kind” fairytale-like settings, as shown here.
Words and photos by John Clayton
It could have been the opening for a James Bond movie, or even one of those wonderful black and white mystery movies of the ‘30s or ‘40s. The station was deserted. The mountain air was crisp and biting, and there was a slight hint of rain, as dark clouds scudded across the grey and leaden sky. She sat there alone and waited. Little bursts of steam shot out from her wheels now and then, and one could smell that magic aroma that only steam trains provide. The four old, wooden coaches that hung lazily behind her, all seemed to be waiting for passengers – yet none came.
With a shrill blast from her whistle that wheezed from her innards, the sound reverberated throughout the empty station, bounced off the greener than green hillsides, and drifted down into the valleys and lakes that lay below. If some shady character had indeed boarded, then he or she must have done so in total secrecy, as the 50-plus-year-old steam engine, number 99-1608-1, emitted a thunderous huff and puff, and great clouds of white smoke surged skywards, as she began to move from the station in the truly Bond-sounding village of Cranzahl in Germany’s Saxony district. Like all steam trains, that whiff of smoke (unique to them alone), was proof positive of the worldwide appeal of such manmade machines.
Anyone taking a closer look at this marvelous piece of human engineering must have wondered, as I did when I was on board recently, how all the hundreds of moving parts fit together, and moved in perfect unison. How could the human mind create so many countless small, big and almost everything in between parts, that made this little iron giant move?
She huffed and puffed her way through a quaint and artistic countryside, filled with winding trails, narrow gulleys, and little doll-like houses that dotted the landscape, and made you feel as if you were in a Hans Christian Andersen fairytale. Passing through a truly tiny village, a grizzled old man appeared by the side of the track and waved. Was this for real, or was he some sort of Disneyesque character laid on by the railroad? No, he was just one of the few folks who appeared from time to time to wave — or just look and stare.
Rushing streams so crystal clear you thought it was a mirage, passed by in a flash, and down below we saw lovely lakes and even bigger rivers – this was an 11 mile journey from Cranzahl to the highest town in Germany, the spa center of Oberwiesenthal, and this was (now get this name) The Fichtelberg Mountain Railroad in the Upper Ore Mountains (www.fichtelbergbahn.de). Our so-called Little Giant had an amazing 600 hp under its iron hood, and a top speed of 15 mph – not nearly enough for a fast getaway for any James Bond character, but slow enough for any steam buff to relish the ride, and enjoy mesmerizing scenery that gave the senses and one’s imagination picturesque towns and villages along its captivating route of travel. Whether it was marvelous meadows or bewitching forests so closely knit together you wondered how the trees managed to breathe, this was a tourist delight in every way, shape or form.
As we trundled our way across this lush landscape, it was hard to realize that during our slow one hour journey, the train had climbed 780 feet in altitude. The James Bond connection became even more vivid as we crossed a 75 foot high, 360 foot long viaduct. Surely this was the scenic place for one of Bond’s opponents to appear, and tangle with 007. But no one appeared.
Although I’m an adult, I felt a twinge of sadness, and yes tears welled up in my eyes as we entered the final station and marshaling yard at Oberwiesenthal, and I knew this magical journey was over. For steam buffs around the world who want to enjoy steam train nirvana almost everywhere, a visit to Saxony is a must — it has more steam trains and related museums than any other part of Germany. See for yourself at www.saxon-steam.com or see the German National Tourist Office website www.cometogermany.com.
Fichtelbergbahn Mountain Railway Specifics: Open all year long, this magical narrow gauge railroad has a track width of 750 meters, with five superb chuffing, puffing locomotives, built between 1952-56. It’s also worth noting that steam trains have been running on this route since July, 1897! Photo and video railroad buffs will have a field day filming and shooting nifty photos as this classic train huffs and puffs its way and along the scenic mountain route – even better, you cross six bridges, and stop at no less than 9 stations – many so small that unless you knew they were there, you’d miss them altogether. Picture taking can be done from either the carriage (be sure to open the sometimes difficult to open window) or out on the trestle between coaches. PEN