I sometimes hear from former residents of Manhattan Beach who return after years away to find long-loved restaurants have closed. “Café Pierre is gone? And Darren’s and W’s China Grill? What is left that I’ll still recognize?”
When they drive past Ercole’s, Shellback, The Kettle, and Hennessey’s, they breathe a sigh of relief. The prices will have changed, there will be new faces, but they can walk in and feel the years slip away.
They might get that warm fuzzy feeling about Brewco Social too, reasoning that despite the name change it’s still the Brewco they knew, where they could get burgers, sandwiches, and pizzas in a casual atmosphere. They would know things changed on closer investigation, because the rustic red brick, clutter of signs, and polished walnut paneling that was hip in 1991 has been updated. Light fixtures like alien eyestalks and caged orbs illuminate a room that is contemporary from the stone flooring to the Scandinavian-inspired furniture.
It would be surprising if space like this was still slinging burgers, pizzas, and sandwiches. They’re not. The menu, designed by consulting chef Neal Fraser, has one burger and one sandwich, if you count Greek style lamb folded into naan as a sandwich. The rest is global and contemporary and includes everything from sushi to schnitzel. In three visits I found most items to be both interesting and solidly executed.
I was tempted by the Brazilian cheese rolls on the starter menu, but ordered the wood-grilled shrimp and the broiled shishito peppers with bottarga, crispy quinoa, and citrus glaze instead. Bottarga, the salted and cured roe of mullet or tuna, is not a common ingredient outside Sicilian and Spanish restaurants and is usually used to flavor pastas. The briny, funky flavor balanced the citric dressing and peppers, and as is always the case with shishitos, some were much hotter than others. I won at shishito roulette until the last one, which was so hot that I drained most of my water, and it was still worth it.
The shells of the New Caledonian prawns had been split before grilling and finished with Calabrian chili butter and a sprinkle of herbs and served with a grilled lemon. I didn’t think the lemon was needed, because the flavor was fine just as it was, smokey and peppery, but not so hot that it was out of balance. We balanced these spicy items with a cooling ahi sashimi salad, strips of quality raw tuna topped with white and black sesame and a bit of Japanese pepper condiment, next to a mix of Japanese greens that included cucumber, seaweed, daikon, and mizuna lettuce. Ponzu sauce was provided, but unnecessary because the balance was already just where it needed to be.
On another visit we tried Chinese chicken salad, which fell short of the other starters we tried here. The individual ingredients were fine, but this salad usually has a bit of sesame oil in the dressing and some toasted black sesame seeds, and those were missing. It wasn’t bad, but the hint of sharpness that puts this salad over the top wasn’t there.
Among the mains, I’ve tried the Korean ribs, harissa chicken, wiener schnitzel, steak frites, roasted cauliflower, and grilled sea bass. The ribs and chicken were variations on a theme, roasted meats with seasoning mixes from Arabic and Asian cultures, but one hit the mark and the other didn’t. The ribs were mild compared to anything you’d get in K-town, but the depth of seasoning was there, herbal with a gentle heat that is cumulatively warm but not quite sweat-inducing. Those who enjoy the full throttle version will find something to like here, and those timid about Korean flavors will find this to be a great introduction. The rotisserie chicken was disappointing because the zesty harissa sauce had the faintest whisper of garlic and chili pepper. When I asked a server, she explained that they use a powder rather than the paste, and that makes a difference — the vinegary kick that amps up the flavor was missing. She graciously removed it from the bill because I was disappointed, which was unexpected and appreciated.
The schnitzel and the steak frites were traditional items very well executed, the former a massive pork tenderloin that had been breaded and fried golden brown before being served with cucumber salad, mashed potatoes, and lingonberry jam. The meat was fork tender and juicy inside a crisp crust, northern European comfort food any German restaurant would be proud to claim. The steak frites were non-traditional because the meat had been marinated with some kind of citrus, while the French generally leave it natural. I preferred this version. The acids in that marinade could have something to do with the fact that this was very tender, which was a welcome contrast to the beef I’ve had in France. The only quibble I had was with the French fries, which were not very crisp despite being fried in beef tallow. Tallow can be heated to very high temperatures without scorching for magically crisp fried foods, but on both visits the fries were short of that goal. It doesn’t help that they are served in a cup, a pretty but impractical presentation that makes it certain that the ones at the bottom will be soft. I dumped mine on a plate as soon as they arrived and recommend that you do the same.
(A note for vegetarians — it doesn’t say so on the menu, but they will fry in vegetable oil if you ask. A note to the restaurant — you should tell your customers this on the menu. A note to every restaurant that also does this — read previous two sentences carefully.)
Two other entrees showed the wisdom to leave classics just as they are, while the third was the most surprising and rewarding dish of the evening. The sea bass sauteed with olive tapenade and tomato was an Italian classic well executed, and the lamb tacos were something you could find on any street corner in Athens. Why they are called tacos is a mystery, but perhaps lamb in folded flatbread doesn’t sell as well. That’s what this is, chopped rotisserie lamb with feta, pickled red onion, tomato, and tzatziki sauce, and it’s very good.
The item that surprised everyone at the table was the roasted cauliflower with lentils, arugula, and a lemon-caper emulsion and roasted piquillo pepper sauce. The plate was beautifully composed and the flavors elegantly balanced, the cauliflower slightly sweet and wholesome, blanched arugula gently bitter, a little sweetness and spiciness from the piquillos, gentle vinegar and salt from the capers. If you are taking a vegan to dinner and want a knockout dish, this is it. If you aren’t a vegan but enjoy harmony on a plate, this is still it.
As might be expected, Brewco Social has a good selection of beers, wines, and cocktails, though a much shorter list than their predecessor. This is more firmly a restaurant than a bar with food, but if you do drink, they’re bound to have something you’ll like.
The dessert menu is strange — only three items, a vanilla custard cone, root beer float, or a sundae, all made from their soft serve machine. If you are not in the mood for custardy ice cream, you’ll have to go elsewhere. I would have greatly preferred some cake, pie, or a fruit tart, but tried their soft serve frozen custard. The frozen custard was decent though the cone was very fragile and shattered when I tried to remove the paper wrapper. A server who noticed this sighed and said that they should look for a different cone vendor. They should, and also for a baker so they offer variety to those who don’t particularly like vanilla custard.
Brewco Social has only been open for two months and is still a work in progress, but the service is professional and the food generally of a high standard. If the folks who are in town to visit nostalgic old haunts give it a try, they might decide that there is some virtue in the new establishments after all.
Brewco Social is at 124 Manhattan Beach Blvd. in Manhattan Beach. Open 11:30 a.m. Wed-Mon. Close 11 p.m. Sun.,-Mo., Wed.,-Thurs. Midnight Fri. — Sat. Street parking, full bar, wheelchair access OK but outside sidewalk is steep. Some vegan items. Phone (310) 798-2744. Brewcosocial.com. ER
